Hiya, apologies if asked before.
Looking at my forlorn +2 project that hasn’t gone anywhere due to lack of space, then thinking - could I lift the body off where it is and start some work?
Garage is flat roof and not high but if I took wheels off and kept it low, what sort of overall height would I need to raise then pull complete undercarriage out?
Cheers
Paul
If it helps, I have my bare shell on top of two wooden trestle tables. I have the bare subframe on a pair of furniture moving dollys and it slides in under the tables with a few inches to spare.
The highest point of the subframe is the rear turret top so if you measure the height of that, it will give you your minimum height. I think you should be able to get a shell above a rolling chassis in one bay of a reasonable height garage.
Cheers and thanks for reply. Thats teh sort of thing I envisaged, can you help me out here - roughly where would the top of the rear turret align outside, say top of door B post?
Cheers
Paul
The big issue is the rear shock towers. You either have to raise the floor pan above the highest point of the shock towers if you are pulling the chassis out the front or the rear, OR at least high enough to clear the rear wheel arches if pulling the chassis out sideways. And if the suspension is still on, remember that the chassis will raise up a bit as the weight of the body is removed. So from wherever you start (wheels or no wheels, etc) you will need to raise it at least 24" (the nominal height of the chassis), and probably more like 27-28" to clear the raised suspension.
Rear turret top is ~22" from chassis base
Ground clearance is 6-7"
Car height is ~48" (ground to roof line when on wheels)
So body floor to roof line is ~42", so theoretically I think the roof would roughly need to be at 71" (7 + 22 + 42) but probably better to estimate ~6.5 foot. This also assume you can lift the car in an even level manor, if not you need to lift it higher.
An inch or two under the parcel shelf.
If you look in the boot at the body mouldings either side of the fuel tank, it’s basically level with the top of those.
Thats great info, thanks for all replies - it is very sandwiched in next to another (Triumph) resto so can’t easily get to but can check the roof height - I’ll look tomorrow but reckon 7’ should be achievable at shallow end.
Just want to start doing it, otherwise no pint in having it after a year 
Cheers
Paul
Follow on question. It’s COVID so I have no friends. Is there a way to lift the body by yourself with some kind of contraption? I think I’ve seen pictures of such a thing somewhere. I’ve also read from some that you shouldn’t lift the body but instead drop the frame, once all the suspension is off. But even in that case, something would have to hold the body up high. Thoughts?
if the body is bare it isn’t so bad , weight wise, and could be supported under each side of the floorpan (with pallets or similar), weighs a lot with screens, doors, upholstery, trim ,etc. I have pictures of mine on old oil drums when the repaint was done (bare shell). might be possible to jack it each side until the shell is clear of the chassis, then slide planks under from the sides.
A few owners on here suggest it’s worth doing the sill members before anything else on the body so there is no chance it will sag…
just a few thoughts that might be of use
I definitely agree on doing the sills first. I asked on here when I first considered it, and was given good advice. When I opened the plates under the wings, all I could see was lumps of rust. Both sills were eventually removed with a dustpan and brush! Once they’re in, the whole shell is stiffer to lift.
I’m also about to lift off the body, so the comments here have been very useful. I did see somewhere that someone had used an engine lift - one poking in through the windscreen hole, another was from the side through the empty door space. Lifting points were rail/seatbelt fixings (a simple eye screwed in, with straps attached) and (I think) the shell’s central tunnel access holes. Sorry for vagueness.
Slightly off topic, but have a look at this https://youtu.be/E7XQtnCePKA A guy restoring a Mk1 Europa, but his videos are excellent, and he has skills. The tip-over he made for working on the shell is very interesting, especially after he ballsed it up first time.
Cheers
Ned
Your first issue is how you are going to support it, you need to be able to lift the body off without obstructing the wheels if you want to roll the chassis out from underneath.
These links might help:
viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20421
viewtopic.php?f=36&t=45961
I’ve got my body lifted off with ratchet straps at the moment but you need beams in the garage roof to attach them. As others have said, the bare body is not too heavy but the fully trimmed body is…
Thanks for the responses and links. I don’t know if my frame needs to be replaced or not but I’ve owned it for over 40 years so I’m guessing if not now, soon!
here are a couple of pictures of my body going back on. Used an engine lift at the rear to body mount holes in boot floor and a chain hoist through the windscreen to body mount holes behind dash on the tunnel. The helper in the photo is about 6’ 2’‘. Normal height shop roof, 8’. Note chassis is complete. Not as hard a job as I expected. Body not that heavy or unwieldy, although it was a little tippy and we had to keep a hand on it so it did not start to roll, but not bad. Gary
Thats great info and pictures thanks, I’m very limited on headroom (meant to measure today, now tomorrow) and unfortunately width as well! Another shell next to it but thinking of putting (the other) on rotisserie and 90 degrees to free us some space. Likewise the car is 50+ and unsure of history so assuming original chassis. Love the different ways of supporting it! I’ve heard that sill strengtheners should be replaced hence need to gain laterla space as well. but from whats been said it sounds dooable in my limited space - thanks.
What I was thinking was to put up a couple of wooden supports to lift body off using a couple of winches, the garage roof is not strong enough.
Cheers
Paul
I had removed and cleaned the side sills. Being a desert car the sills and chassis were not rusted, just dusty and in need of new paint. The support visible in front of my friend was to support the roof truss near chain hoist but I don’t think it was really needed. Just cautious. Body was bare, nothing but sills. Gary
Gary, great idea and pix. Would not have thought the bobbins could support the pull upward! Thanks. Dave
Checked and about 6’6"’ (78") between garage floor and roof at rear, so based on answers (thanks) I should just about have clearance altho was planning on using a wooden frame with couple of manual wire hoists which will eat into it. I need to sort out rotisserie for other shell first to gain width for Elan sill work.
Cheers for help!
Paul
Just done mine. 34.5 inches. with wheels on and Dunlop SP tires. Jon.
Is that 34.5" extra height needed abovethe top of body?
