You have checked for the presence of spark I hope? The coil could be your problem, or some associated wiring.
A couple of other things…
Ballast Resistor should be removed.
Recommended coil with resistance of 1 to 3 ohms.
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Tony,
Ref your question.
The answers provided are one way, however with a 123 distributor I believe there are two ways to set it up. I described setting the engine to TDC, I believe you can then programme the distributor to set the required advance. This may be the easiest way.
I don’t have a 123 but I’m sure someone will be along to tell you how to do this.
Dave
Thanks gjz30075. The answer is no, but I have established that there is petrol reaching the carbs.
Thanks khamai. There is no Ballast Resistor.
In the123ignition guidance they say “The primary resistance [of the coil] should not be lower than 1 ohm.” I haven’t checked it, but I will, thank you.
Thank you “wdb“. Yes I have checked that I’m getting a spark, thank you.
Hi Tony,
Please would you advise which model 123 you are fitting? It’s something I am considering for my car.
Thanks
Mike
Hello Mike
I have the invoice for the distributor from which I can see that the product details were:-
Part Number: 123/X/F-4-A
Description: 123ign FORD X/FLOW non vac
Here’s a link that I found today:-
You have to make sure you get one with the “cog” and not one with a slot at the bottom, and also one with a sideways facing cap - as per the one on the right in the photo of the two distributors, and not the one on the left.
If you do buy one, do make sure that you follow the instructions to the letter - or else you’ll end up like me!
Cheers
Tony
Tony,
Is there a reason why the chose the version with 16 preset curves, rather than one of the programable versions?
Regarding your non-start problem, have you selected a suitable curve?
Mike
Hello Mike
I didn’t choose the version with 16 pre-set curves - I was given the distributor.
I left it with the choice of curve that it had been set to - F. Does anyone know whether choosing the wrong curve would cause the car not to start? And also which curve have those of with a 123 distributor chosen, please? (It would be wonderful if changing the choice of curve resolved my problem - but I do have my doubts.)
Cheers
Tony
Hello khamai
I have checked the resistance of the coil and it is 2.8 ohms - so the coil doesn’t look to be the cause of my woes.
Cheers
Tony
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Have just fitted a 123 to my rover v8 and it seemed to go well. If you have spark then coil etc is probably fine. The issue with lower resistances seems to be due to the dwell calculation it does onboard. Seeing spark (if you do when the engine is turning on the starter) also means the rotor arm is turning and the distributor cap and ht leads are ok. So to me this leaves 2 things. One the sequencing of the spark to the plugs is wrong or 2 the fuel delivery is in some way not working (you mentioned you ahd fuel at the carb but is it getting to the enging) . One quick check of this is to spray in some easy start into the carb throats and see if the engine fires. If not then it has to be spark sequencing. I would turn the engine to tdc and photograph the cams on cylinder 1 through the oil filler and photograph the distributor with and without the cap on with the leads labelled. Put those on here and it should provide the “hive mind” all the info required to solve the issue.
Tim
The issue with lower resistance coils is that the in distributor electronics cannot provide the current drawn by these coils without overheating and failing hence the requirement for 1 to 3 ohm coils
Provided you have around a maximum of 12 degrees of total advance up to 1000 rpm the car should start and idle. The total advance is a combination of the distributor advance set by the curve your using plus any static advance by setting the distributer position on when it triggers versus the crank TDC indicator
While you have fuel up to the carbs have you checked you actually have fuel in the carb bowls. Strombergs also normally require the coke to be used to start when the engine is cold.
cheers
Rohan
Thank you all for all your replies. I went away for the weekend, hence the delay in my replying.
Before I do as Tim suggested (with the taking of photos) I wanted to check with you all that I have got the firing order right. I know, of course, that it’s “1,3,4,2”, but as the rotor arm turns anti-clockwise should it therefore be “2,4,3,1”?
Many thanks
Tony
Thank you pharriso - that’s very clear!
Just replaced the image with a clearer one. 
Hello all.
Having tried unsuccessfully for more than 4 weeks to get my 123 Ignition working I have decided to have it taken to a nearby garage specialising in old cars to see if they can get my Elan to run.
I do still have a question that I’m hoping someone will be able to answer. The 123 distributor was set to curve “F” when I received it, a gift from a friend. I am unable to ask said friend how he’d arrived at “F”, as sadly he has since passed away.
There are 16 curves to choose from.
My questions are twofold.
What curve are you using?
And do you thing that setting the wrong curve could prevent the car from starting (as opposed to starting but not running right)?
Many thanks
Tony
Tony,
I don’t have a 123 distributor, but in my experience, the twin cam and the four cylinder Ford engines it was based on would start and idle with pretty much any distributor that will physically fit them. The advance curve is irrelevant to starting, you just need the HT leads in the right order and the distributor positioned to give a spark a few degrees before top dead centre when it’s turned over. If your engine can’t then be started, it isn’t because the wrong advance curve has been selected, there is another problem.
Ray.
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Agreed… something is missing…. spark around TDC and/or fuel….
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