About to embark on installing a new wiring loom in my +2 and a new dash.
Car is running, but needs a new dash and the niggling electrical issues time after time are driving me nuts.
Probably should have made that decision at the beginning of Covid, but procrastination won out.
I have read the plethora of posts on the topics but am wondering if there are three or four top tips for embarking on this project.
Had already planned on removing a fair amount of the interior and labelling the major parts of the new loom.
I have a British AutoWire loom, updated by them for an alternator. I was thinking about adding some additional relays for things like the windows and lights.
Laying the loom out on a flat surface in the correct orientation and then labelling it sounds like a winner,
Testing each circuit as one goes, seems logical.
Any other obvious techniques that makes the project easier to stomach?
any ideas on a benchmark of hours needed - probably not given all the variables.
Engine bay and interior/rear are pretty straightforward, but dash is not.
I’ve done three dashboards, so here are a few thoughts . . .
With the old dash removed, offer up the new bare dash in order to be certain that it will fit, and make any necessary adjustments.
Before removing the old loom or any components from the old dash, take loads of photos and make drawings of the back, more than you think you’ll ever need (you will need them).
Clean and refurbish everything before fitting to the new dash.
Before finally fitting anything to the new dash, make sure everything actually fits - you may need to enlarge some holes (eg eyeball vents), or even find that others are too big.
Fit the glove box door and the glove box first.
Clamp the very bottom of the dash securely in a Workmate. You can then easily get at both sides and won’t damage anything like you might on a bench or table. Any marks from clamping will be covered by the centre console.
Don’t throw away the old loom or dash until you are 101% sure that everything is okay. I sold my old dashboards on eBay!
If you are fussy and meticulous, allow at least a couple of weeks to do the dashboard.
On the electrical side, there might not be any need to go overboard on relays. Instead I would put efforts into more fusing, but this is not easy without making your own loom.
Windows - before installing relays, do check the actual window operation - motors and chanel felts etc. In good condition and with decent wire, relays are not necessary - however a decent earth is necessary.
what wire do you know, have been used to make up the loom - PVC or Thinwall?
Hal
I went with British Wirings PVC/PVC offering in 2018 when I purchased the loom.
Not as attractive as black, but I think that I am going to add a layer of the cloth tape cover for cosmetic reasons, at least in the engine bay and boot.
I can’t say that I am looking forward to the project, but it has to be done !
I appreciate the commentary on the dash - it looks like a lot of fun !
Wishing you luck.
I think that I may start a similar thread and see how I get along! It might motivate me to stick with it … although the major motivation will be the fact that I am doing it in a garage I need for my car during Nebraska winters !!
Matt
Just took a look at your blog.
I had a G reg +2 when I lived in the UK (On the Staffordshire/Shropshire border Pattingham area), my current one is a 70 Federal version that has seen some interesting add ons.
My plan for the front is actually to remove the bonnet, radiator and the carbs and front grill before starting the job on the engine bay. In the cabin, to remove both seats, wheel and center console but hopefully leave the rear alone as far as possible; and there is nothing in the trunk to remove except for the plumbing for the EFI project that is still stalled!!!
I am also thinking that with the loom out, some f/glass work and an engine bay repaint might be in the works.
I have a friend in Omaha with a Plus 2, who has posted on here and is waiting for his loom from the vendor; I think he is a lucky guy as he will be able to go to school as we say on the two of us.
OK, Day 1
Bonnet already off, so pulled carbs and radiator to get some space in which to work.
Despite having had the engine out 18 months ago for a new clutch, its messy down there. I had the job done for me, and cleaning up the engine bay clearly wasn’t on the list of jobs to be done. Lesson learned should have done it myself.
Clearly some clean up work on the red permatex gaskets and it looks like we need some resealing and new gaskets on the cam cover - check, parts arrived today from Ray at RD Ent.
I am also going to add some vacuum points in the intake manifold and grind out some additional space between cylinders 2 and 3 so if I choose I can use a Mangoletsi throttle bracket set up.
Carbs also need a clean and refettle - I wonder what Jim Inglese’s post covid backlog is looking like (:
I have to say that if I hadn’t seen Matt on the other side of the pond kick off his loom project today, I think that procrastination would have won out. But looking forward to comparing notes.
Tomorrow I plan on pulling all DPO/Personal bad wiring before getting to work on the loom.
Any good suggestions on a circuit tester/tracer, apply power one end, see when bulb lights up the other - should probably just make one, but interested if there are recommendations for the US based?
thanks
N
Before reinstalling the dash make sure that the switches are wired and installed in the correct orientation. On my S4 I had to rewire the window switches through the radio opening. It can be done but not easily.
Several of the needed wires for grounds or short jumpers may not be included in your new harnesses. If you have a good soldering iron you may want to also solder the crimped bullets. Crimped bullets have been known to separate from the wires. Crimping on new bullets while on your back under the dash is a job to be avoided if possible.
It will take a while. Don’t rush it. Good luck.
Dick
It sucks when you realize that the DPO was in fact you (me, in my case at twenty eight or so). Have you caught yourself saying “Why, in hell, did I think that was a good idea?”. I don’t even bother saying it any more.
DIY electrical work generally comes unstuck at the connections.
Crimp connections are great in a production environment, where cable size, crimp connector and tooling are all controlled. A ‘one size fits all’ tool purchased from eBay, a packet of connectors of unknown parentage and wire of an unknown size is a recipe for disaster.
There have been threads on how to go about this - in particular bullet connectors which require a ‘hexagon crimp’ to be reliable.
Personally, I solder all the connectors, and have yet to have a connection fail.
Never really thought of my car as filthy … opinions are changing with this project, I just wasn’t really looking for it, I was just driving it. Engine bay loom all out as far as I can without removing the dash, that is the weekend’s work.
Interesting thoughts for a Friday morning:
(1) When we were doing this type of work in our 20s, there was no internet and no forums, but then I found that there was always that “guy” within shouting distance to come and lend a hand and an opinion - thanks to the “virtual guys (and girls)” of the forum.
(2) Shout out to Ross Robbins and his awesome round the USA tour in his Elan (well the Bow-tie Tour as it probably should have been called given the route) and raising money for a Kid’s charity. Kudos to my wife when told of his trip for saying “well that sounds interesting” rather than NWIH… of course I think I can guess what she really thought, but no need to burst my bubble right away.
(3) I have two of the three daughters home this weekend and am giving them copies of “Never Stop Driving - a Better Life Behind the Wheel”, stories edited by Larry Webster trying to explain why we spend so much time involved with old cars. If we want the next generations to love this activity the way we do - warts and all, we probably need to work a little harder at explaining it. The same two out of three of my 20-something daughters are buying their first cars this year, I am happy to say that I was the dissenting voice suggesting that the really cute MG or Fiat convertibles they had picked out weren’t the best of choices for a daily driver and grocery getter. if they get through their first winters with their own cars (versus parental contributions), I am sure that we can find something “fun and frustrating” for next summer! Sadly, I wonder if they will be the last generation actually “buying” cars.
Off to the day job, and then pulling the interior and dash over the next couple of days.
As anyone who has waded through my posts will know, I have a pretty low opinion of the wiring on the Elan. I have never seen anyone credited (or blamed) for the design, and the pictures of your engine bay reminded me of one of the more bizarre aspects of the wiring design.
My S3 and Sprint have the grand total of 2 fuses each, your +2 (if I have found the correct diagram) has 12. My own opinion is 12 is closer to the right number, but I have never established what caused the change of heart at Lotus.
Andy
Without any knowledge, the fact that in 1969 there were a minimal number and in 1970, there were 12 plus four relays and then the number stabilized suggests there was either a regulation or an individual as the root cause. I was looking with jealousy at the other re-looming project going on in the UK on a 69 !
I too would be interested in the actual root cause for this complexity that will be and has been causing me fits.
N
Nick, a suggestion I liked when I did my rewiring job was to insert a low amperage inline fuse to the main positive lead to the new loom (essentially between the battery positive and the main brown that powers everything). The idea is should you accidentally short a circuit anywhere in the loom while assembling & testing, the main fuse should protect everything. Any good quality test lamp or multimeter can be used to check each circuit as you go.
You mentioned making some running changes, perhaps relays, additional fusing etc. I found it easier to assemble the entire loom outside the car with everything emanating from the new dash. Did it on the carpeted family room floor as a warm winter project.
Once I had everything working I loosely fitted the dash to the car. I used modern connectors for everything, but this may not appeal to you. One think to consider, even if you retain a lot of the bullet connectors at the various devises, is to have modern multi connectors for each leg of the engine bay runs, the rear loom run, and the various minor connections to the courtesy lights, window lifts, etc. The idea is to have several easily disconnected multi connectors that allow the dash to be fitted and removed easily rather than twenty or thirty separate bullets that have to be assembled under the dash.
I also used several main ground runs within each loom leg. I located a main ground bus at the right hand side dash mounting bolt. When adding a relay, I used smaller gauge thin wall cable in the same colour scheme for the relay trigger and the supplied larger gauge cable for the load from the fuse box. As I was adding several relays, I opted to mount the new fuse box and relays in the glove box so the whole affair cones out with the dash. You may wish to do it differently, but suggest sketching up your loom layout before you start.
If you do opt for circuit modifications, make sure you document the changes. Rather than trying to make a modified circuit diagram, I used 11 x17 card stock to sketch out each circuit separately using coloured felt markers. Sounds like a bunch of work, but not really a big deal while you are at it (and you can see and remember everything).
One thing to consider adding is some additional accessory circuits. I installed a couple of cigarette lighter receptacles under the dash for modern electronics like a Garmin, the phone, etc. Prewired USB receptacles would probably work better now.
Although this was all on my Plus 2 I would probably do it in a similar fashion for an Elan.
HTH. Make sure you ask any detailed questions as you go; suggest noting your model and build year in the question. All the best. I found rewiring a great project to take on myself as it really just requires patience and persistence, Added bonus is you will fully understand the wiring system when you are done.
As an original owner of an S4 I always thought the wiring design was quite poor. Only 2 fuses and messy looking. When rewiring my car recently I found melted insulation under the dash. I never had a fire but did have the voltage regulator stick once necessitating me hacking the wires off before going completely up in smoke.
I started with new looms from Paul Matty (AutoSparks) and reconfigured them to use additional fuses and relays. The fuses are consolidated inside a small waterproof RTMR (as in the link below) and the wiring throughout is now neat and tidy. Strict adherence to color coding throughout so the next person won’t be cursing me when I’m gone.
Also, placed a cutoff switch on the backboard. I always turn this off while the car is parked for peace of mind. Also easily reached in case of an emergency.
thanks for the great advice and suggestions.
The layout and pre install sounds like the way to go, it will allow so much flexibility and the ability to test everything (well almost).
The idea of a new fuse box to replace the three g4 glass fuse box is also to be looked in to.
thanks again