Electric fuel pump is the way to go! Mine is mounted on an aluminium panel that is held to the front boot panel by Zeus fasteners-it also serves as access panel to the diff.
Finally got around to pulling my leaking clutch slave cylinder, circlip was a pain and the cylinder fairly stuck in the housing, but finally got it. Debated long and hard about the master cylinder, finally decided to screw myself under the dash to get to the bolts - I think I need to do yoga to figure out a better way in. Glad I did, though - it’s a wonder I had any clutch at all.
Separated the diaphragm on my Girling brake servo to unleash a tidal wave of brake fluid. ![]()
Innes
Pulled my dashboard to pull the heater out & replace the fan motor:
While I’m in there I’ll…
- Service the wiper motor, it runs slow
- Replace the dash loom to engine bay loom connector (read about in a separate thread…)
- Replace the steering column bushes
- Tidy up the wiring
Oh what fun!
Phil,
Consider changing the gauge bulbs with LEDs. You can actually see the gauges after!
Hi all
Drove it to the gym it still performs as good as ever hope I don’t regret this comment
Keep up the good work lotus lovers
Do not change the ignition warning light/charging light bulb to a LED. I did this and and was stranded. LEDs allow current flow in one direction only, and the ignition warning/charging bulb must be an old-fashioned incandescent type that allows current flow in either direction.
John Larkin
I bonded in the new screen and surround on my +2130/5 . My hands are now encased in black gunge. The screen is held in place with loads of pressure from ratchet straps but I’m not confident it isn’t going to pop straight back out in a couple of days when I release it.
Mick
i’ve been (started friday evening: 3d so far) restoring my original crashpad - you won’t believe the hours involved!!! mine was a mess: dash top almost disintegrated: as flat as the rocky mountains: pictures (step by step) to follow sandy
Clutch slave cylinder- seal gone, has lasted about ten years iirc.
In order to drive up the ramps, one needs to have a working clutch! I did a quick and dirty bleed-job to get something like half a pedal and managed to get it up in the air.
Looks good Phil… Try to position the clamp for “easy” access in the future, if need be, like through the
radio opening or some gauge opening.
Mazzini, where did you find the trim for the bottom of the dash?
Nice work Phil!
A very ingenious forum member with an S1 made and fitted them for me. I traded him a set of original hub caps. I think he used an alloy strip he found in a local hardware store.
Cap-head bolts for exhaust manifold shortened and trial-fitted. Cam-cover off ready for new gasket- think I’ll use a smear of clear silicone sealant on both sides of the cork this time; I used Wellseal last time but that only lasted a year and then leaked like a sieve (rather unexpectedly, as I’ve sworn by it for years; I bet H&S has outlawed the vital ingredients!).
Used a flaring tool to tighten the crimp on the pump to Weber fuel line, and annealed the copper sealing washers where the fuel line bolts to the carb.
No more weeping, and no more petrol smells !
P.S. The fuel line was new only 8 years ago…
So you’re not going the 100% silicone route ?
As in, lay a bead of high temp silicone around the head, light smear of grease on the cam cover, and then rest it on the head without bolting it down.
As long as you put enough on, and some squished out the sides a little, you can lightly bolt down next day as you’ve just made yourself a silicone gasket.
Which is still removable in the future courtesy of the grease you put on the cover.
I did this several years ago and it’s worked out fine.
Ralph.
Took my S4 on a run to Brooklands Museum to celebrate the 50th anniversary of it leaving the Factory on Feb 5th 1969.
Managed to get some photos alongside another 50 year old - Concorde had its first flight on March 2nd 1969.
Photos attached - Question is which has aged more gracefully the Elan or Concorde???
John








