as my proper Churchill tool is still in the UK to be shipped with other parts, I used an ad’hoc tool : 8 tpi threaded disk with high tensile 10mm bolts to press a socket on the axle via a steel plate.
a couple blows on the center while in tension was enough for the RHS, the LHS required an additionnal light heat with a propane torch.
The rear wheels had shown a tendency to get loose on wet track days, due to the Quaife rear end hammering action I suppose : I’ll give them an good inspection (play with the matching wheel, to which I’ll add inserts if necessary)
Having stopped my silencer falling off, at very low speed a “speed bump”, lifted the Y piece out of the manifold (header) pipes. I considered using a pop-rivet to hold them together but for the moment have fitted a chain between the back of the mid-pipe, after it swings left, and the suspension A frame to stop the pipe moving backwards more than 1/4" (6 mm).
I’ll find out if it works in a few days when I revisit the ramp!
I’ve some experience using pop rivets in exhaust, specifically with custom motorcycles to hold muffler inserts in the pipes. In that application I’ve found that standard aluminum pop rivets live a very short life, I believe due to resonant vibration, and can shear within 100 miles or less. Stainless pop rivets are much better, though a bit hard to ‘pull’. Haven’t had a stainless one fail yet so can’t comment on their expected life.
Holding two pipes together would not, in my opinion, be a good application for a pop rivet. If a regular or band clamp is not suitable for some reason, you might want to look at the spring type joints (springs parallel to the pipes).
Finally got around to replacing the engine mounts…no more knocking on the foot well, especially since the installed mounts were backwards …also installed the Lotus Marques heat shield on left mount - nice piece…
Washed the mud off. Good grief, the weather in Somerset has been awful and the mud on the roads is inches deep in places…ah well the driving is fun though as mud is a bit like ice only dirtier!! D
Completely disassembled my car in order to install a set of headers. You haven’t lived, I guess, until you’ve take the better part of the day to install headers on an Elan. And then, after they are installed, tried to figure out how to get the engine mounts on again.
A couple of days ago my son and I started disassembling our Sprint. The car is a '72 RHD car which hasn’t been a part before. The chassis is in remarkable condition, but then the car spent the first thirty years of it’s life in the Channel Islands so it was spared salted winter roads. Nothing interesting or unusual to report in the tear down, but I did find some old Dutch 1970’s coins under the seats.
Took a break yesterday and went for a 144 mile drive across the Yorkshire Dales and Pennines.
Removed and oiled the speedo cable as the needle had started jumping badly (80 to 50 and back). I was amazed what good condition it was in. I used GL5 on the basis of small diameter and not very fast rotation and it is much improved; I last did it in 2001, what oil do other people use?
Also changed the throttle cable which had broken strands but the intact s/h replacement didn’t cure the high idling rate, ~1300 rpm, which seems to be the Webers not closing properly.
Hi
Cut the access hole in my pedal box to save pulling the box out of the car. As master cylinders were serviced 33 years ago I consider it might be not too far in the future althogh they are fine at the moment.
Trusty Dremel made it easy
…also installed the Lotus Marques heat shield on left mount - nice piece…
