This might be a very silly question, but I’m away from the car and trying to plan my car-fixing schedule.
Is it viable to change the dizzy cap with only taking the air box off my +2S, with Lumenition cables etc.,as it seems a right pain to get at under the Dellortos.
I’ve got a guilty conscience from my ?70 cap and leads from Magnecor lying on the shelf…
Thor, I manage without even taking off the airbox, by taking it forward. Just depends which way round it is, and where your expansion bottle is etc. - iain
I can just about manage it on my +0 and from what I can tell there is enough room to hold a disco under the bonnet of a +2 so it ought to be easy. You can guarantee it won’t be though
All the more reason to do the awkward jobs in midwinter, indoors when no one sane drives an Elan and leave the summer for driving not tinkering.
I changed mine recently and found it no problem I do have Webers though and mine in not a ‘S’.
I took off the cap and fitted the Lumenition without too much of a problem. The dizzy clip on the left side was a bit fiddly but nothing to worry about.
Wow Jason, changing the cap yes, but fitting the lumenition, without taking off the carbs! You’re either a genius or must have very thin arms equipped with 2 extra joints, I’m impressed…
Shouldn’t be a problem to just change the cap, or even change/adjust the points. I’ve even managed to remove the whole thing with the carbs in place. There’s more room than there looks (for once!)
The distributor was one area that all the classic car buyers guides in the early 80’s referred to as a bugger of a job to work on.
After a couple of days of ownership more or less the first job I did on my Elan was changing the points. With the aid of a magnetised screwdriver and more nimble hands than I have now it was relatively easy to do. Compared to doing the same job on a Mini van with no removable grille it was a piece of p*ss.
Dyno tests I did with and without the filter in the nose showed no difference. So the K&N is not going to change performance even if it looks nicer than the original rusty can.
I looked at removing the carbs and then thought how I would tighten the carb nuts underneath to leave a 1mm gap and thought f*ck that!!
I have had much practice on many Minis over the years so am well versed to bruised knuckles
I am thinking about renewing the carb seals before I give the engine a tune, but am putting it off. I have a long list of jobs to do before that.
The Lumenition was not that bad really, I thought it would be worst
Take off the cap and rotor, unscrew the two screws holding on the dizzy top plate (that the points sit on) and you can lift everything out. Cut the brass peg down and fit the optical unit. Slap it back in and you are good to go The worst thing is where to locate the control unit, I mounted mine ontop of the master cylinders as I was working outside in the rain squeezed up against a fence. I will move the unit one day
Now that wa exactly my thought (the 1mm gap underneath), so I’ve just waited. The Lumenition fortunately is already there, all I’m doing is fitting the rather expensive red KV85 Magnecor competition plug leads and a new dizzy cap drilled out by Magnecor to take the fatter leads. …and fitting new BP6ES plugs at the same time.
Thor
I have the K&N cone filter in my Elan. (see pics on website)
There are advantages to fitting them.
Mine is fitted to the inner wing so it is no longer sat infront of the radiator blocking air flow. Also easier to maintain, mine can be removed and checked in under a minute
By fitting a K&N it should also do a better job of filtering the air than the old paper type it will also stay cleaner and not clog up so easily.
There is a very slight increase in induction roar but nothing to excessive.