Trying to pull the crankshaft sprocket. I have a shiny new one to go on - the existing sprocket is a bit worn. I’ve tried a 3 legged puller, no dice. Jubilee clips to stop the lags slipping. Heat. Cold chisel under the puller leg. Some brute force. I moved it by just 2 thou!
Following the advice of a Lotus matey, I’ve ordered a gear splitter. Sort of two halved circular thing you put around the part, then tighten it up. It’s supposedly going to separate the sprocket and crank, but I’m not sure it’ll manage to force itself into the 2 thou gap.
I did a search and what I’m doing seems to match the prevailing wisdom.
Helpfully, the service manual says use a “suitable extractor” to remove it. Ho ho ho.
Cut a groove with a Disk.
Put cold Chisel in the groove and give it a whack. Be careful of your hand.
A bit like removing Starter Ring on Flywheel
Alan
You need a hydraulic puller.much more control and easier to use.using a cold chisel is a sure fired way to screw up your alloy casing if you miss hit.
Regards
G
Maybe i explained wrong. The groove would be along axis. So the chisel expands the dia of gear. Maybe easier done with a dremel.
I’d be surprised if a nut splitter works on hardened steel gear.
Alan
I use a bearing splitter behind the sprocket and hydraulic puller. no need to get the spliter down to behind the hub as it grips on the sprocket itself OK
Similar to that but I cannot see the hydraulic ram or different 2/3 leg manifold so I presume its standard screw jack system which is ok but cannot exert the kind of smooth even pressure.My ram is good for 7 tons .Not much can resist that.
G
Darn it, why didnt I think of that? Nice one @Rohan, you saved the day (yet) again!
I’ll have to remove the crank of course, but then I can fit the splitter as you say and it’s off to the press with it. 10 tonnes of force should do the trick. I’d previously disregarded using the press because its plates (that normally you rest the work piece on) are too thick to fit under the sprocket.
I have to say… with this engine build it’s been one step forwards / two steps back. At least I have not applied much sealant - not got that far. I managed to break an oil control ring (no. 4 piston) though, thanks to a crappy Chinese ring compressor and my own thick headedness. QED were kind enough to supply just the ring. And I thought the jackshaft I bought from them was wrong, but it turned out there is a spacer and longer peg I should also have ordered. I gave the original (damaged) shaft away (along with its spacer & peg, both of which didn’t look like they were separate parts). Anyone familiar with my past endeavours will recognise this pattern of events. And I thought that by doing a ground up restoration the problems were not going to get me.
Ha, ha - think again!
(P.S. @alan.barker the splitter was ordered already. Probably the same one as you have pictured.)
Hi jonb,
Yes i’m sure the same as mine. I used it when i refreshed the Gearbox on my Sprint.
Very cheap from China but did the job without damage. Between Lidl and China we all have full Tool Kits lol.
Alan
I bought my SKF hydraulic puller kit about 35 years ago. Not cheap but it has stood the test of time well. I appears to be the same as the Sykes-Pickavant puller kits which I presume is where SKF source it from. For critical frequently used tools where quality and precision manufacture is the main criteria I try to save up for professional quality equipment. Where I will use it infreqently and its hard to justify the price I go for the cheaper chinese equipment to fill out the gaps in my tool inventory
Ive got a Sykes pickavant with all ancillaries for any extraction job (including teeth) HA and had it for 40 years.They are unbreakable and are worth every penny.I used mine constantly pulling bearings hubs pulleys and never let me down on the tightest of jobs
G
Yes the crank sprockets on the ford 1500 / 1600 engines have a different offset from the twincam sprockets due to the timing chain cover back plate thickness. Same reason for the spacer on the jackshaft sprocket
I had thought Rohan’s idea was to use the puller as a collar around the sprocket, then seat that in a press, but the crank wouldn’t fit between the press supports. So I used the threaded puller thingie, and it came off.
Unfortunately, one of the front cover bolts sheared whilst torqueing up (to 20 Nm for gawd’s sake), but as it is in a non-blind hole in the block, I should be able to get it out without too much bother. Readers of my (much) earlier postings will know how much experience I have with these sorts of things…
Now you may wonder why a bolt might shear at such a trivial loading. I don’t know. Maybe my wrench is iffy, maybe the bolt is defective. Came as part of a set from QED… whatever, I have the old ones (somewhere) so there are spares.
I had already checked the new sprocket against the old one for alignment (per Alan’s comment) and it’s correct. Thank you for your advice.
