Hi All, slowly progressing with my +2 dismantling. Nearing the end of this phase, and stuck again! I’m hoping someone clever can help out with some advice!
I’ve got the hubs off the drive shafts, with the help of the ‘Rear Hub Removal Tool’ from SJ Sportscars - worked a treat (no amount of soaking, leverage, heat, etc would shift either one previously!).
Now the easy bit - taking out the outboard drive shaft from the bearings / housing. Only it isn’t so easy!! Can anyone tell me the best way to remove the drive shafts? Do they need to be pressed out? I don’t want to have to resort to the lump hammer. The rear housing is an awkward shape, and I don’t want to damage it, especially the inner edge that has the groove for the circlip. Nor the thread on the driveshaft itself.
I did all this several years ago, without too much trouble, as far as I can remember, but really struggling with it this time around.
Any suggestions / advice would be very welcome. Thanks, Jeff
Hi
This job is easier if the strut is removed then it can be put in a vice to hold it while removing rear circlip then as far as I can remember knocking out the shaft from the wheel end leaving the front bearing in the housing and rear bearing complete with drive shaft will come out.You can then remove the other bearings either by press or hammer.
Cheers
G
Hi G, and thanks for this reply. They’re off the car and in a vice, circlips removed! I didn’t want to have to hit the shaft any harder (the nut is in place to try and protect the thread), but I guess I’ll persevere!
I was thinking a press might be a better option, but awkward shapes to content with whatever method used.
I heated the housing around the inner bearing, which can help, especially if loctite has been used. I didn’t on the first shaft I removed, and I think it did make a difference.
In my case, there was corrosion between the outer bearing and the shaft which made them very difficult to remove. As I don’t have a press I used a large hammer. Rather than a nut on the shaft it’s better to use something that fits over the thread and transfers the force to the shoulder (I tested various old sockets). When I was hammering the first shaft out using a nut, the nut began to deform and I was worried the thread would get damaged.
This is a partial writeup of removing the first shaft:
I’ve since done the second strut and put everything back on the car (new brake discs, pads, shock inserts, bearings, etc.). Just have to bleed the brakes now!
One other point. If you use a hammer, put a large roll of tape over the shaft. That way, if you miss the shaft the hammer will hit the tape rather than the housing…
Another way of removing the shaft without damage to the thread is to mc a steel bush that fits over the thread to protect it and up against the shoulder of the shaft. You can then hit the bush with a soft hammer or press it out .I tend to use a hide hammer with a lump hammer against that.Never had any damage to thread or shaft and always came out.Heat is a good way of releasing in the housing but I don’t like using heat especially in a garage for obvious reasons unless its the last resort and most people don’t have that resource. Also make accurate checks on the alloy housing and shaft for wear as a loose bearing will cause lots of problems especially if you have rotaflex couplings fitted
Regards
G
Heat is definitely the next weapon in the armoury! Combined with a suitably-sized socket (and a roll of tape), to protect the thread (and housing) from hammer blows. Good thinking!
Always good to get the combined expertise of those out there who have overcome these problems - thanks again.
Jeff