Sorry, i know this has come up on the threads before, but the topics are now closed.
I am aware you can get the body, but the level switch is unobtanium.
is there a solution? My level switch seems to sink after a while meaning that the brake light warning light on the dash flickers or is on permanantly.
It maybe the float is leaking or the pin is corroded inside, who knows.
Is there a new solution to this or do I have to live with it?
Kind regards
Jeff
Hi, they do come up on eBay now and again.Also look on the net for jaguar/Rover brake fluid sensor.Regards Steve
It is called a ‘Sovy Valve’ and it can easily be refurbished with a good wine cork. It all comes to pieces with a bit of patience. I did mine some years ago and it has been fine ever since. The hardest part is getting the rusted rivets out but with a bit of a soak in WD40 or similar they eventually come out.
Do a search for ‘Sovy Valve’.
Alan.
The thing is called a Sovey so you can search on our site on hiw to restore..
You can take it apart and rebuild: the cork , which rots after decades marinated in brake fluid can be replaced: I used an artifical cork from a cheap bottle of wine and found it is the right size and resistant to brake fluid.
The cork holds a steel rod which rusts: I replaced it with a brass rod of the same diameter: the rod has a brass “stop” disk which engages with the contacts: (or make one from a thin scrap copper sheet). You then have to thread the disk and the cork onto the rod and set float and disk the right heights so that when the resovoir is full, the cork floats, pushing the rod up, which allows the copper disc to clear the contacts and there’s enough of the rod poking out of the top of the red cover to show you the level is OK. Conversley, when the fluid level drops , so does the cork and the disk makes contact with the contacts so the dash warning light goes on, and less of the pin is visible out of the red cap . To set the disk on the rod at the right distance, I cut the crimp end off a lucar connector and crimped it on the rod: gently at first to allow it to be pushed up and down to get the distance right, then nipped tight and a spot of solder to hold. Suggest leave a generous amount of the rod sticking out from of the red top and trim back when you get the float and disk positions right. ..Good luck..
Tony
Hi Guys,
Thank you so much. This forum is fantastic. I have owned my elan for 35 years and I thought I knew most thing about it. I never knew you could take that thing apart and refurbish it.
Thank you again.
I will take it to bits and let you all know how I get on!
Kind regards
Jeff
Jeff two other points :
The square X section seal round the inside rim of the transparent plastic cap is important because it should stop brake fluid leaking onto your pedal box. II couldnt find one with the right dimensions, but made a nice one by carefully slicing a length of closed cell PU foam and gluing the ends into a ring with superglue: spongy and snug enough to form a good seal and 3 years on, no leaks or deterioration.
Second, take care if you decide to buy instead of rebuild: the Sovy sold for Jags and Rovers does NOT fit the Elan Plus 2 master cylinder…Tony
