I am actively searching for an Elan. As is the case with cars of this vintage, I know I can’t be picky and I need to be patient: two qualities that are hard to master.
I am not a collector. I like to drive and push all my cars, frequently using the higher side of the power band. I am looking for something modified with performance in mind. I am coming to the conclusion that a conserved S1/S2/S3/S4 with a base engine and rubber donuts is not the car for me. Am I wrong?
I have a 74 GTV on carburators with suspension improvements and while the handling is great, the 100whp are not what I strive for (I bought a modified engine for it)
A modified Fixed Head Coupe (FHC) with a diagonal roll bar and 140/150 hp fits the bill perfectly. I would much rather have an ex-autocross car than a once-upon-a-time concours winner.
Before I commit to this specific path, I would appreciate insight on a few core points:
Is the performance gap between a base 105 hp engine and a modified 140/150 hp unit as large as it looks on paper? Given the sub-1,500 lb curb weight, how drastically does that extra power alter the real-world dynamics and power delivery when driving hard?
Are rear Rotoflex donuts a “must-avoid” for aggressive driving, or are they truly just “part of the character”? Do they hold up to higher horsepower and modern sticky tires under transient throttle conditions, or is a modern CV conversion a mandatory upgrade for my use case?
Is a Fixed Head Coupe (FHC) dynamically worse than a Drop Head Coupe (DHC)? Does the added fiberglass roof structure introduce any handling penalties or does it provide a noticeable increase in chassis torsional rigidity?
If anyone has a car that matches this criteria, or has made the jump from a stock Elan to a modified sprint/solo spec, I would value your input.
I would change out the donuts for CVs absolutely if your going to use it enthusiastically. The original donuts were marginal, the current reproductions are even more so.
I have driven many Elans and taken my S4 FHC on an engine journey from 105hp to 180 hp 1600cc versions over 40+years The difference between a 105 hp standard engine a 115hp SE engine and a 126HP sprint engine is noticeable in enthusiastic road use. A 140 to 150hp 1600cc is even better. A 150 to 160 hp 1700cc version better still
If not building the engine yourself you need to be wary about how its been modified as much can be done wrong ! and claimed hp may be wishful thinking and reliability questionable. You can build a very reliable high HP Twincam but you need to do it right and that is not cheap and which not many people can do.
I am talking about Weber headed versions not Strombergs. Stromberg engines can be developed to around 140 hp but not much data on what people have done and I have never done serious development work on one.
A FHC is more comfortable and usable in all weathers than a DHC. But a stripped out ex racer DHC will be much lighter especially an S1 or S2. There is no real difference in handling as the roof weighs almost nothing and adds no real rigidity.
If putting sticky tyres on it and using that grip you need to probably replace the diff output shafts, the rear hub shafts and the front stub axle shafts and not be using the original steel wheels as they will all crack and fail. It also needs a fair bit of suspension work to get the most out of modern sticky tyres
You might be surprised how good it feels without needing ridiculous power.
That is my dyno recording above and down a country road my car feels plenty fast enough.
Remember that if you are chasing a lot more power from a twincam then you will want to get one where you know the engine work has been done by someone who really knows what they are doing otherwise you might have a lot of issues.
I was in a similar position, but already had a Sprint that had been modified (badly) in period to be a ‘fast road’ car. I decided to try to be faithful to the life it had had, and keep the modifications rather than trying to return eveything to an original spec. In reality, I had to pretty much do everything again, as the original work was poor quality, and what wasn’t was worn out.
I replaced all the running gear with TTR’s fast road offering, replacing all the weak spots as Rohan suggested above. Although I have engine building experience and a well equipped workshop, I decided to use a known builder (Craig Beck Racing) as I didn’t want to ‘learn by experience’ when it came to obtaining parts and as the engine had already been modified, I wasn’t sure what was good and what was bad. I can recommend Craig, apart from the quality of the work, he is a very reasonable guy to work with. With a ported head, TTR fast road exhaust and QED 420 cams, the engine produced 144bhp at the flywheel on Craig’s dyno.
I would say that economically, you will do far better to buy a car that has already been rebuilt rather than having the work done yourself.
I am in the US , where supply of cars is smaller than Europe. And although I have imported 3 cars in the past, I’d rather find something here.
the dyno chart is interesting, because that looks like a fresh base engine, so good to hear that it is plenty fun. Albeit that is such a subjective thing. I track a 996 GT3, for reference. But I also have fun in my GTV 2000. I think I just need to test drive one personally and see if a stock Elan is the fun I am looking for.
It’s with all cars that have been modified isn’t it ? I call them chocolate boxes: you never know what you are getting.
I see power claims on modified cars that make me smile
Thank you. I believe I account for half the total views of that video.
The Alfa is a joy to drive and own. I consistently look for reasons to drive it although it is the slowest, most uncomfortable, least safe car that I own. Naturally, the Elan would replace the Alfa’s achievements. Although probably not be the slowest.
