Let the pictures do the talking

Beautiful last day of summer, and a Sunday sunrise cruise to Palm Beach on Sydney’s northern beaches with two old mates!!! Gordon and I brought together the last 2 Elan’s I’ve restored, after repairing and painting both in 2004/5 then they languished in the shed for way too long before their final assembly.

Gordon’s S2 26R bodied (stripes) was completed in March 2009 and I think is potentially the most used Elan around having covered over 30000 reliable miles since, the S1 (roundels) completed last week was raced from new and will be returning to both road and track soon as its going to a new home next week. I’ve really enjoyed driving the car the past two weeks to shake it down, is class legal 1594ccTwin cam all steel bottom end, with forged 11.3:1 pistons, 1.625 inlets and 1.4 exhaust valves in its period modified head. With 45mm Webers, its idles at 800rpm smoothly on pump fuel, and pulls like a train with no pinking! the engine produces 132bhp at rear wheels and 122ft lbs torque, close ratio box and 3.77 with Quaife LSD its a hoot on the road.



Next project is to commence the rebuild my 26R (again)

Enjoy

Vaughan

Update:

Tonight I got the dashboard out and found that somebody called Paul autographed the glovebox:

Might be the same guy who installed mine

Looks like Brian helped him… :laughing:

Unfortunately no photo right now, but Paul signed the glovebox of my +2S as well.

Sorry for the low quality phone camera shots. JPS themed Elan being born. One of none.



out the bottom…very difficult.

Not suprised!!! Why?

If you have never removed the gearbox and you search this forum for how to’s, you come away thinking out the bottom is easier than engine out!
next time it’s engine out.

I did it once at the race track. There was no engine lift available so out the bottom it came.

First remove all the differential mounting bolts and shift the assembly over so the drive shaft can be moved rearward.

Next, remove all the gearbox mounting bolts and push the box as far rearward as possible to get the input shaft out of the clutch.

Next remove the clutch from the flywheel and separate the bell housing from the gearbox.

Then it pretty much all falls out onto the floor…or if unlucky your head.

Significant amounts of skinned flesh and blood sacrificed as I recall.

Re-assembly? As stated in many Workshop Manuals…“reverse the procedures above for re-assembly”.

No recommended.

I have done this, with just the aid of a floor jack, twice (don’t ask). Not easy, but there are some advantages.

3 pics on our annual HVR reunion, 9th/10th of March, this time in north Yorkshire.
1 is the start after overnighting at Rudding Park Harrogate.
2 is coffee stop at How Stean Gorge.
3 is lunch at Bowcliffe Drivers Club Bramham. Though I cant remember which order they will appear here.
As usual, we had the usual eclectic (some would say disparate) group.
Marvellous.
Jim



This weeks project (fix fuel gauge rather than carry a stick to measure level):



Looks like fun! And at least you have the stick-option.

Despite the microscopic repairs, did not work so off it was shipped for repair. Now to go find the right stick.

Merci beaucoup pour ces infos utiles!

Another “interesting cars on Sunday morning”. Cars, conversation and coffee at Hassop.
Jim


Home made door cards :smiley:

Is that hardboard you have made them from? If so you need to get the curve into them?
I was going to soak mine with water then curve them and let them dry but, the trimmer I used told me to heat them up with hot air blowers or a blowlamp! This will soften the resin so that they can be curved then cooled in that shape… And it worked a treat!

I think I’ll leave the blowlamp method for a while! In the meantime, I’m supporting the top and bottom edges on the floor and leaving a large fire extinguisher resting in the middle until the desired curve is reached.