Instrument Panel LED Conversion: US Supplier

I have read multiple posts regarding upgrading the instrument panel lights to LED. There seems to be plenty of good UK sources. Can someone point me to a good US supplier? I have searched, but haven’t found one that as straightforward as the UK sources (e.g., https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/)

From previous posts, I have learned:

  1. Use warm white LEDs
  2. The ignition lamp requires additional modifications if converted to LED
  3. If upgrading the indicator bulbs, a different flasher unit will be required.

Thanks,

Kevin

I got most of mine from Jeff at https://www.lbcarco.com.

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Not a criticism Kev, but I’m not sure why Led’s would be an upgrade, modern and different perhaps, but I’d replace the bulbs first and see what you think…they were bright enough for the human eye when the cars were built and new bulbs can make quite a difference without the technical challenges.

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Incandescents clearly do the job, and there is nothing wrong with keeping them. However, I went with LEDs for three reasons: Less heat, which is better long term for the plastic warning light covers, less draw on the electrical system – it’s a Lotus, every little bit counts :slight_smile: – and significantly longer life. Unless I got a bad one, they won’t require replacement in my lifetime.

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>they were bright enough for the human eye when the cars were built
I was built at the same time, but they don’t look as bright, even with new bulbs.
(Well, I didn’t look at them at that time… No Elans in my hometown.)
In any case, my eyesight is definitely worse now and I need more light in the instruments. I used to guess what speed I was travelling at by looking hard and long at the speedometer, it’s better now with LEDs. There’s still room for improvement, but it’s much less “blind flight” during a speed check.

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My original incadescents were woefully inadequate in the city at night (Denver). Perhaps away from traffic and street lights they were barely adequate, but otherwise pretty horrible. When I switched it made all the difference in the world, regardless of where I was. I just bought them on Amazon GutReise 10pcs E10 Screw DC12V Warm White Spot Led Bulb Light Lamps +10pcs E10 Base (DC12V, Warm White) - Amazon.com I didn’t change the flasher, but I do remember a minor issue with fitting one, though I can’t recall what that was. I have no hesitation whatsoever in recommending them, it made all the difference in the world- perhaps some bulbs acquired in the UK gave people problems, but not for me. I also changed the dashboard and license plate lights, the interior light really does its job now contrary to the relatively weak output from the incandescent version. I also didn’t need any adapters. My bulbs look nearly like a regular bulb save for a white plastic ring collar near the screw base. Now that I think of it, on one bulb- I think I carefully sanded down this ring a hair to make it fit easier, but overall, it was a simple swap. The cost of the bulbs was merely $10 for 10 of them.

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Dash LED’s are great. Definitely get warm white as they look fantastic. Check what bulb holders you have though; modern replacement Smiths gauges use different bulb holders. I actually ran a dimmer for a while, but eventually removed it as it was difficult to physically locate. Was a nice feature.

If you have the dash out, consider changing the stock screw bulb holders to push-in style. Very easy to find LED’s for these, and the awkward gauge ground rings are not required with them.

Pretty sure this supplier can also provide a few feet of black and Red/White wire to replace this portion of the loom. You kind of want the dash lighting loom run to be the last installed run anyway in case you need to remove a gauge in the future.

HTH

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One of the few parts that I don’t mind sourcing from Amazon is LED bulbs.

These ones work just fine and I keep a spare in the glove box just in case. The only two that I have left the incandescent is the charge warning and cigar lighter (heat)

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Its a night and day upgrade ! The standard incandescents are gloomy, barely illuminating the dial. They produce heat and don’t last. You can retain the yellowish look if you like with 2700K - personally I much prefer 4000K - in all the interior lights as well gives a musher cleaner look.

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I went ahead and bought some. Thanks!

Hi all,

I converted the Speedo and rev counter to LED with a flexible LED strip. These were also side lit ones.

I got to say they look great. Much better than the single lamp that didnt light the whole display.

As for the other instruments, they were replaced with LED as required, i.e. if they were blown or dark through a long life. PITA to change those though so do it once and forget.

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I did LED too when I had the dashboard out a few years ago as the backs of the instruments are REALLY difficult to get to, so the desire to not have to do it again was strong. Warm white looks great, not too bright, just enough- the exception being the voltmeter, which is one of the newer Smith Classic repro types and for some reason hardly any light gets to its face. It also fogs-up on chilly mornings but that’s another discussion.

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