Early headlight pull switch

Plus 2 Discussions
1

Hi

The last time I put my +2 in for the MOT it failed on the headlights, I got it to pass after clamping the 2 plastic pipes leading into the switch.

So I really need to renew the seal in the headlight switch, before I attempt to dismantle my headlight switch, has anyone done this and are the seals available or can I make one???

Thanks

Jason

2

Jason
I am pretty sure I have read an article somewhere, possibly on here, about a guy repairing one using rubber seals from a large syringe. OK, it helped he was a paramedic, however, most farm supply shops also stock them. I think it was somethlike ones for a 100ml syringe which he then trimmed to fit.

My personal approach for all these things is to have a shot at repairing it as I can be no worse off if the repair doesn’t work and I might just save myself a few pounds in the process, keep more original parts on the car and have most importantly the satisfaction of getting it to work!!! Ok, doesnt always work out as planned, hence why my sidelt switch works upside down, but thats my own fault for trying to incorporate a modification.

So if I was you, I would just go for it!!! And photograph the whole sequence for the rest of us to marvel at!

Cheers

Andy

3

Try this for starters:

lotuselan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=13457

Happened to recall that Anna had been into that switch, searched for “vacuum anna”…

4

Thanks Andrew

That was perfect, I did a search as I remembered this post but could not find it. I just did not want to take the switch apart and find it could not be repaired.

Thanks :smiley: :smiley:

Jason

5

I replaced my vacuum switch with an electric operated solenoid. I mounted it in front by the headlamp acctuator.

Bob

6

Hi Bob

Yes that is on my list titled ‘10 year renovation’, I just do not have the time. At the moment just trying to do the little bits and peices to get it through the MOT so I can drive it this spring. :slight_smile:

I pulled switch apart and the rubber is very hard, I am going to scuff it up put it back together with a little rubber grease wiped over it.

Thanks

Jason

7

A little silicon grease inserted into the vaccum ports of the switch may be enough to fix the leak. I did this on mine and it helped.

On the first switch (came in pieces), I made a mold of the rubber piece and then I cast a new one. This worked OK and with a couple more tries I could have made a piece that would have worked great.

Fortunately, at that point I saw an ebay listing a few miles from my dad for a washer motor and switches. It ended being a wiper motor assembly, a failsafe switch and an early non-failsafe switch. I got the lot for under $15 dollars and the switches worked after adding silicon grease to seal, so I didn’t have to use the mold.

Rob

8

Could a “standard” size O-ring or grommet fit the switch?

Take measurements and try MSC and McMaster Carr or other supply companies.

Bob

9

HI Bob

No it’s not an o ring.

See pics on this post lotuselan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=13457

It is a rubber block.

Jason

10

My original switch was corroded and as new replacements were unavailable, I chose to upgrade to the solenoid system. I believe the solenoid is used in “S” models. Unless you can find this rubber block or cast one, I would not know what to do. I have not seen any new “push pull” vacuum switches but an internet search may turn up something.

Bob