I had a similar problem with a new clutch (heavy duty one) in the end I decided that the last bit of pedal motion pushed the clutch too far and caused it to lock back up as if it was back on.
I thought it could have been pushing the pressure plate centre against the friction plate centre.
It was always just ok when driving, but if I wanted first or reverse it just wouldn’t go in until, like you, I released the pedal a bit to 2/3 travel and it was perfect.
I’ll have a look tomorrow as I can’t completely remember how I got around it and don’t want to send you in the wrong direction.
I would be trying to understand what is causing the problem and then working out a fix. How about removing the rubber boot from the clutch lever on the bellhousing, and then getting a helper to operate the pedal whilst looking into the housing with a light to see what is actually going on.
Interesting thanks.
Master cylinder have an adjustable rod since it’s rebuild.
So perhaps rod is too long now.
However it is needed to have all 3 pedals at same level
Hard to say if mine were the original master and slave after 50 years, but at the time of recommissioning the car I only changed the seals (now both new)
The only difference in my case we’re the pressure and friction plated (helix from qed)
Also, mine is a +2.
What I did was to fit a bump stop in the cabin, at the top of the clutch pedal. It’s just an m8 bolt attached to the pedal box support bracket. (I also made the support bracket, so don’t know if that is original.
Unlike messing with the pushrod length it keeps the pedals at the same level.
Yes will do.
For tonight I just looked at slave cylinder: nothing strange when operated 2/3 for full lenght.
HOWEVER I discovered I’m able to get any gear on full lenght with engine switched off.
Engine started at idle: Impossible to get a gear on full lenght (but perfect at 2/3)
Need to double check but I think my pressure and friction plate is Helix HD
At the moment I use a small piece of fuel hose to limit clutch pedal travel to 2/3.
It works well but I would prefer to understand what happens on the last 1/3 of travel.
I will lift car and had a under inside bellhousing engine stoped and running. Perhaps I will understand more.
We keep in touch !
You need some play at the Master Cylinder Pushrod to be sure Master Cylinder Piston returns to end of Cylinder when Clutch is released.
The Clutch and Brake Pedals don’t need to be at same height unless you left foot brake
Alan