Hello all, I am in the process of removing the engine and box from my 130/5 +2. I’m at the point where I’m about to try and lift the equine and box as one unit, but need to disconnect the front flange of the prop shaft. The manual says to withdraw the unit a little and then disconnect the flange. That sounds like it would be tricky and so I am tempted to cut a window in the bottom of the chassis to access the front flange bolts. Has anyone else done this? Is it advisable? Chassis is a galvanised Lotus item. Thanks a lot, Jonathan
I don’t have a plus 2 but I think all Elan frames are similar in that there should be an access hole
on the right side of the frame. You’ll need to remove the seat and maybe some carpet, then you’ll see and large rubber plug. Remove the plug for access.
Hi there, thanks for that, I’ve just looked and found said plug, but it looks like it would only be useful for guiding the splined shaft in on a 4 speed box. The front flange on my 5 speed is another 4” or so to the front, so I can’t reach with spanner’s. I’ll think again about another window. Thanks again, Jonathan
I may not be following the question… or the plus2 may be different than the Elan… but on the Elan, you unbolt the flange at the differential, slide the propshaft forward slightly, then shift the rear of the propshaft sideways to clear the diff flange and begin sliding the propshaft rearwards. My recollection is that it just fits to the port side of the propshaft, but I may have that backwards.
Sorry if my initial question was unclear. I’m not trying to remove the prop, I’m taking the engine and gearbox out and the front prop flange is not accessible until you pull the whole lot forward about 6”. Trying to disconnect the prop while the engine was dangling sounded tricky, so I wanted to make an access hole to disconnect the front flange before extracting the gearbox. Thanks.
Jonathan
I know this is a subject that has been covered multiple times in the forum (so do some searches) but I can CATEGORICALLY SAY that it is easier to remove the engine only first and then take out the gearbox.
A lot depends on the reason for engine/gearbox removal but if the engine is going to have its head removed for any reason then taking it off whilst it is still in the car make engine removal even easier, a doddle even.
Ian
Hi Ian, thanks very much for your reply. I was planning to remove engine and box together as the searches I had done were telling me this was easier! However, I can see the logic that it may be better to separate the two and pull the engine separately, so I will take your advice and try that, it will at least save me cutting a hole in the chassis!! The reason for the motor and box coming out is that my gearbox decided to let go last week, so I need to rebuild it ASAP. It’s the 5 speed and I’ve been collecting parts for it since the last couple of years and I’m looking forward to rebuilding it. Thanks again. Jonathan
Hi jj66,
First of all your car has a 5 speed lotus gearbox so flange fitting to gearbox input.
Remove Engine alone first seperate at bellhousing.
Then if you want to remove gearbox seperate at diff, remove gear lever after withdraw gearbox with propshaft attached.
Alan
Hi Alan, thanks for your reply. Yes, I will try this. I was looking at taking the box with the engine as some of the bell housing bolts were tricky to access. One of which is due to the exhaust manifold (4 branch) being right up against one bolt, but I have loosened the manifold tonight so can get a bit better access to that one. Thanks. Jonathan
Now it makes sense, I didn’t pick up on the 5 speed. On the four speed, the propshaft just slips out of the gearbox.
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Hi John, thanks very much for sending, that’s exactly the kind of access hole I was thinking of making, with nice large radius corners for low stress. Do you prefer to take the engine and box out together or engine first then box?? Cheers, Jonathan
P.S. I also have an Elite box and have sussed that it won’t fit! Aiming to use the internals for spares.
Engine and box together…
John 
If you do Engine and box together best of luck with the bellhousing jamming between the the engine mount lugs on the chassis.
Alan
Thanks Alan. I’ve had conflicting advice but I do understand that we all have different work spaces and equipment. I am struggling for space and head height in my garage so I have decided to remove the engine first, then the gearbox. I’ll let you all know how I get on tomorrow 
. Thanks all for the advice, Jonathan
Hi Jonathan,
If you can manage to remove the exhaust studs by locking 2 nuts on studs to remove.
That way no hassle with manifold catching on studs which is a pain in the butt.
Alan
Hi. I have the 130/5 also. Is it possible to unbolt the prop at the diff and remove engine, gearbox and prop together? I think this is how I did it in the past, with my previous 130/5.
Sean.
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Hi Alan, that’s a good idea, thanks. I have removed the exhaust from the manifold so I’m hoping the manifold will come out with the engine. It’s a tubular manifold and looks like it will be a squeeze!
Hi Sean, that should be possible I believe, but I don’t have enough space to do that. I am probably going to cut an access hole in the bottom of the chassis like John Clegg has done, that will also be handy for greasing the UJ in future. Thanks, Jonathan
Remove the exhaust studs. Replace them with bolts .
Rohan’s idea not mine!
Makes the job much easier
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