Hi,
I have to replace my rotoflex, I’m interested by a driveshaft conversion. I don’t know which kit I’ll choose between TTR, PMatty and spyder kits.
What do you think about these kits, which is the best ?
regards
Jerome
Hi,
I installed the TTR sliding spline system a few years ago…
Works fine, with no problems.
Only issue is that you really need droop limited rear shocks to prevent the UJs binding at full droop.
Cheers
tim
Didn’t know Matty’s did a kit, but the Mick Miller one is better than the Spyder in my opinion. Haven’t tried the TTR, don’t know if anyone on here has compared it to any of the others (most people only tend to buy one and stick with it from what I’ve seen - none of the options are cheap)
Rick
Hi have fitted TTR rear end to my s2 elan the quality is tops no more worries about drive shafts popping up through your boot lid none of these conversions are cheap but with the current poor quality of doughnuts it wont take long to recoup costs Colin
The Spyder drive shaft uses a doughut at one end so it seems a bit daft fitting that to get rid of the original driveshafts/doughnuts. You would really only ? cure the problem.
I fitted TTR units to my +2 and am really happy with them. They ain’t cheap, are ‘robust’ (heavy) but are smooth and bliss, none of that damned surge.
Hamish.
I made up a couple of sets of c.v. shafts although I have only fitted them to my S2 (the other set is for the Sprint) I think they are great, no surge/wind up and the car is more driveably (haven’t done much mileage though) slight binding in full droop which appears to be getting less.
pics at uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/type26 … /my_photos
A friend of mine had the type with universal joints and sliding splines which would lock up under full droop, he changed to 2 x c.v.'s and is very happy.
Before people say how easy/cheap is it to make them, well in retrospect I would not do it again, it is very time consuming and a fair amount of machine shop facilities are required, its worth the price just to go out and buy them.
Brian
Sue Miller CV set looks good.
Any of you TTR owners greased and dismantled the driveshafts as per instructions yet?
I fitted the Mick Miller kit which is very good
I’m pretty sure Paul Matty supplies the same kit
Hi Guys
I will be buying some in the future and they will be the Mick Miller ones.
Berni
Hi
I have just purchased a +2 s 130 and I am very interested in fitting different driveshafts I have details of the Mick Miller ones and the Spyder ones but could anyone please post details or email me about the TTR & Matty ones and where I can get info to compare or purchase them
Thanks
Peter Mallinson
I am intrigued (unconvinced) by the constant reference to binding at full droop.
How many of you are running TTR shafts (or any others) and have had full droop on a public road?
Clive
It is unlikely it would occur on the road except under very extream conditions but
the fact that it “could” happen and the damage that “could” result is enough to make it a consideration.
Brian
Have raced the TT shafts for 1,5 years. Nice bits. Greasing is no problem.
First time out I thought my heart would stop, as the UJs touched the frame ( under the uprights) during really hard cornering, as I had set the ride-height a little to low…( - maybe this is not possible on a +2…??)
Dag
As to full droop on the TTR setup…
I drive over a humped-back bridge reasonable regularly, and when I am in a hurry the rear suspension gets pretty close to full droop
As to greasing, its on this seasons list of jobs…
If anyone wants some picture of the TTR setup pre and post installation let me know…
Cheers
Tim
I don’t really understand all this full droop stuff either. OK, I’ve only done a few thousand miles since fitting the TTR driveshafts but I have not encountered any problems while playing hard a couple of times. Nor do I notice any jaming/baulking when I am working on the car while it is on axle stands and the suspension is at full droop.
When I work out how to post an image on this excellent forum I’ll do so. It shows the back suspension of my +2 just after I had fitted the TTRs and Spyder struts.
Regards,
Hamish.
I’ve managed to set up a new gallery and load a couple of images onto it. One of them shows the back set up with TTR driveshaft and Spyder strut. I’ll see what else I can find.
Regards,
Hamish.
If a problem does occur it is more likely to happen to the two seater Elan then the Plus Two due to the shorter shafts on the two seater.
Brian
Splines will only bind up under torque i.e. you need to be accelerating hard (or possibly with engine braking?), as well as having the suspension at full droop. You will not notice anything when the car is on axle stands, unless they are REALLY badly neglected…!
I am happy with doughnuts myself… (road-going S4 & +2S130/5)
Matthew
Re: making up kit. Would not bother either. I got some parts for sliding spline and UJ’s type and thought I would be smart and have a couple of sets made up. With the 3 to 4 bolt adaptor plates and shaft shorten work it cost me dear. No even put them together yet. Bought some TTR ones. Only done about 200 mile yet. No had a real blat around yet, too wet. Seem very nice, with zero surge. Bit bothered about the natural play in the transmission when you pull off. Ever so slight tick tick noise as it take up drive. Do nuts did not do this but am sure they did soften off. Only did 600miles over 2 years. Began to surge like hell, though no sign of breaking up.
I have lent some Spyder ones (CV and Do nut.) I am going to try them next year as I think the spyder ones may get rid of the tick tick drive take up. The anti-flail/surge ring may not allow the do nut to move as much so I may use the TTR ones on a track car I am building and have the Sypder on the road Elan. My biggest worry was a break and the flail around my Arse. My two pence worth.
Mike S4DHC
OK Brian, I take your point. I wasn’t sure if all this baulking stuff applied to a +2.
I think the TTR 'shafts are very good and miles ahead of the so called ‘rubber’ doughnuts. If was starting again I would go down the same route.
Regards,
Hamish.