I have fitted one new conrod, all new bearings, two new 420 cams with new followers and a new oil pump. The old pump was fine-I usually had 55 psi of oil pressure but I could never stop a leak between the pump and the spin on filter so I got a new pump from Burton. I did what I usually do-used the gasket as a guide to matching the inlet and outlet ports of the pump to the block ports to maximize flow using a Dremel grinder.
I just spun the engine over on the starter, with the plugs out and I am getting almost 80 psi of oil pressure! I immediately checked the box the new pump came in and it states “Standard pump”. Is there any way of checking if it is a high pressure pump from external appearance?
Sounds like the pressure relief valve inside the new pump is jammed closed or your oil gauge is faulty if getting a reading of 80 psi. To read that you don’t have the standard oil gauge as they were 0- 60 psi . A standard pump should put up no more than 40 psi. A high pressure pump should put up no more than 60 psi and no real way to tell without pulling the relief valve apart and comparing to a standard pump if its a high pressure one.
The high pressure pumps you buy generally have the oil filter bypass valve location blanked off with a plug whereas the standard pumps come with the valve still in place. The spring you can see in the pump body facing directly toward the underside of the filter is part of the bypass valve assembly. If you don’t see this then most likely it is a high pressure pump.
Note the oil filter bypass valve is a separate component to the pressure relief valve. Both standard and high pressure pumps have the pressure relief valve but usually the high pressure pumps don’t have the oil filter bypass valve. The oil filter bypass valve is only there to allow oil to bypass the filter should it become blocked. Unlike the PRV it doesn’t regulate the oil pressure as such
My concern is that the filter or its O ring could get blown off by that much pressure. Plus the stress on the gears of course.
One thing that occurred to me at 4.00am: I used Vaseline to prime the oil pump-I wasn’t sure how long it would be sitting-could that be blocking the relief valve I wonder?
did you run the engine long enough so that it gets a chance to heat to operating temperature? if so any vaseline blockage should have gone by now.
If inded the pressure is 80psi while all the rest is good, my main concern would not be immediate gear failure, but rather oil spill or accumulation, or possibly a weakness in a gasket being pushed out soimewhere. Before taking apart the oil pump I would try to let the engine warm up slowly (not revving it up), monitoring the gauge and leaks - and statically (make sure the oil filter is nicely tight) - 80 psi is high for road use, but not crazy high so that this warm up represents a mechanical risk just from overpressure.
This worries me a little,
“ I did what I usually do-used the gasket as a guide to matching the inlet and outlet ports of the pump to the block ports to maximize flow using a Dremel grinder.”
You must have stripped the pump to ensure no particles were left possibly jam the relief valve, did you reassemble correctly?
Nmaudit: I have not started the engine yet-I jave just cranked it over with the plugs out-this was just my first test yesterday. I just tried it again this morning and there is no difference. I am considering changing the 20/50 I put in for some 5/30 and see what that does.
Craven: I stripped and blew out the pump with compressed air before fitting it.
Apparently it is although the pressure is what I had when I built the engine three years ago and checked it with a stand-alone gauge. I am thinking that once the engine has run a bit and the vaseline washed out of the pump (it must be sealing it quite effectively) the pressure will drop a little.
Right now I am replacing the front control arms in my Volvo XC70 and waiting for the Ibuprofen to kick in…
This is a good post to jump in, if I may please, and ask a question that I will one day be asking - what is a good oil pressure on the twin cam to ensure everywhere that needs oil gets a good supply - for road/normal use please?
At what pressure, without the return spring ever been tampered with, is it obvious that bearings are nearing the need of attention?
A twin cam in good condition, with a standard original oil pump, should start off running at between 45 - 50 lbs pressure when cold. If it runs at 50 lbs pressure when cold, that will quickly drop to about 45 lbs as it warms up. Please don’t anyone tell me that my spring has sprung, instead go and find your grandmother and start teaching her about eggs. Never race the engine when at that pressure, or when cold.
When hot, ALL my engines run at between 38 - 45 lbs pressure with 20 / 50 mineral oil at 3000 rpm and above, and at about 15 lbs when at idle. I have never owned a knackered twin cam, but if one ran at anything under about 33 lbs when hot at 3000 rpm and above, I would consider it requiring work. Oil pressure at idle, when hot, is pretty unimportant, so long as there is some, say 5 lbs minimum
Now just a heads up gentlemen. I have heard that there is a shortage of oil filters due to the virus, and that people are starting to panic buy. Shame on them