Scratching my head over this one and would appreciate some help.
Just replaced the engine and gearbox on my +2 130/5 after a gearbox rebuild. Put two gallons of fresh fuel in the tank but can’t get the engine to run more than 30 seconds without dying on me. Balancing / tuning carbs impossible as engine will only run at around 3000 rpm.
Plenty of fuel coming from pump as disconnected lines to Webers.
Takes alot of cranking and pumping of throttle before engine even wants to fire. It then roars into life and suddenly stops.
Now I’ve had time to think I suspect blocked jets in the carbs. Anyone else got any ideas?
sounds like something blocked in the carb. The pumping is squirting fuel in from the accelerator circuit which eventially provides enough gas for it to run momentarily…
pull the jets and give am a blow through
Cheers
Tim
I know that some people hate the stuff, but I would have some cold start to hand and as the engine dies give it a squirt across the carbs or into the airbox (safer). If the engine perks up then you can suspect the carbs, if no difference then maybe the ignition (something heating up/cutting out).
Thanks to all!
Checked the carbs last night and all clear. Fuel pump delivering plenty of fuel so no kinks in feed pipe.
Unbelievably the problem seems to be the ignition switch! Engine runs if key held over. I’ve got spare ignition switch but can’t see how to get old one off. There is a clamp holding it around steering column but there doesn’t seem to be any bolt heads I can get a spanner around. The replacement switch does have bolt heads. Anyone got any ideas - apart from removing the steering column?
It probably has “sheer bolts” which are bolts designed to sheer the head off after tightening, its designed as a security measure to prevent the steering lock been removed.
You may be able to punch the sheered bolt around to loosen them with a pointed punch.
What do you mean by this? Do you mean that the engine runs when the key is held in the “Start” position, but as soon as you let go of the key and it goes to the “On” position, the engine stops? If so, chances are you are going down the wrong path because there is most likely nothing wrong with your ignition switch. A simple test would be to bypass the ballast resistor and see if it runs. If it does, then the problem is you have a bad ballast resistor.
When you turn the key to “Start”, 12V runs from the ignition switch to the coil, but when you release the key and it goes to “On”, 12V goes from the ignition switch to the ballast resistor which reduces it to 6V or 9V to the coil. If the ballast resistor is bad, then no voltage goes to the coil and the engine stops as soon as the key goes to the “On” position.
Yes, the starter motor is running while his car is running.
Brian,
Thanks for the link. The only comment I have is that the ballast resistor that Lotus used in the early '70s which is pictured in the illustrations is difficult if not impossible to find. This is a good thing because it is junk. My Europa came with one like this and it had to be replaced.
Phil should bring the coil to any auto parts store and look for the kind found on most Austins, Triumphs, and MGs of that era. Rather than being screwed directly to the coil, the replacement ballast resistor is a stand alone unit made of porcelin about 1/2" X 1/2" X 3". He’ll have to make up one jumper wire for it. I’ve had these as original equipment on several British cars and have never had a problem with them.
But you can confirm that the ballast resistor is the culprit by simply bypassing it. And as far as ordering a replacement is concerned, you should be able to pick one up at your local auto parts store. Just bring the coil in and ask for a ballast resistor that matches it.
Been banned from working on the car until the weekend as the wife hasn’t seen me as all evenings recently spent in the garage. She also doesn’t want to upset the neighbours with:
a) the noise of a twink churning over hour after hour without starting
b) bad language from the operator!
I’ll try bypassing ballast resistor and have also located one locally. Not many people stock them locally these days!
Suspected ingnition switch initially as had problems with it a few years ago. Its in two parts with a metal locating pin from the key barrel locating into the main electrical - switch bit. The two sections are held together with plastic sleeve. Not very clever - if the sleeve moves and the two parts separate yoo can’t start the engine.
Have a replacement switch of different design but to replace involves removing steering column and drilling out the shear bolts to remove the ignition switch assembly.