There are a couple of posts regarding the small, usually Japanese, lightweight, alternative alternators. One from a Chevrolet and another, a race one (maybe from Racemettle or TTR).
I’d like to know if anyone has done this conversion using a scrap one, or a new one, what car did it come from? (my Corolla’s one looks a likely candidate), what problems did they overcome regarding mounting and wiring?
Before the internet existed I’d have scoured the Car Parts Shop with a scrap of paper, ruler, diagrams and measurements, with any luck the wonder of the web will fit in nicely with my now more sedentary lifestyle.
I went to the junk yard a couple of years ago looking for one out of a three cylinder Geo Metro mainly because I figured it would be the smallest available. After much “research”, I settled on one from a 1988 Mazda 323. This unit is made by Mitsubishi and I chose it for two reasons. First, I can’t remember the style of pulley the Geo Metro alternator had, but the Mitsubishi alternator had a “V” belt pulley on it that matched the other pulleys on the car, so I wouldn’t have to deal with changing that out. Second, it was obvious that this particular one had been rebuilt recently as it was the cleanest part on the car!
Along with the alternator, I pulled the adjustment bracket from the car (and a couple of others from other cars) and welded up a new mounting bracket to replace the original one designed for the Lucas generator.
A member of our local Lotus club provided me with a copy of the wiring diagram that is required and I was able to complete the conversion at a reasonable price. One of the best upgrades I have done to the car.
By the way, I just got home from a run to a tea tasting store with my wife. It is +12 degrees F (-11 degrees C). As we have avoided snow so far this winter (followed by the inevitable salt), I took the Elan which I keep in a detached unheated garage. Despite 10W-40 oil, it started right up and ran perfectly. (The oil pressure was way up there, so I took it easy until it warmed up.) The only time the heater had trouble keeping up was on the highway because the top (hood) has a couple of air leaks near the top corners of the windshield (windscreen).
Certain members of the local British car clubs are in the habit of meeting for breakfast every Saturday at a local diner. The turnout is usually between 20 and 30. Each week as the temperature drops, less and less British cars show up. Yesterday, the only other British car in the parking lot (besides mine) was a Spridget.
We’ll see who is the last to put his car away for the winter!
Do not at any time consider putting a dynamo vee belt to an alternator. To get the drive needed for an alternator will wreck the water pump in 100 miles.
Fit a deep vee belt designed for alternators - they can be identified as having slots on the inside periphery. This belt will have the necessary frictional contact with the pulley with less tension that that needed for a dynamo.
Thanks for the advice. When I was finished with the conversion, because the alternator pulley was of a different diameter than that of the generator and because the final location of the alternator was slightly different that of the generator, the “V” belt that had been on the car would not fit. I went to the parts store and purchased three different sized belts hoping that one of them would (and one of them did). As it turned out, all three belts had the slots on the inside periphery as you described, probably because with the demise of the generator, auto parts stores nowadays stock belts designed for alternators only.
So I guess I put the right belt on, but through no conscious effort on my part. Thanks for the insight Brian.
When I did my conversion to alternator I purchased a Dave Bean ribbed belt kit. It comes with a new pulley for the crank, water pump and alternator. You can run these pretty loose, but not too as in the beginning I never had enough current.
It was near 80 F today here in Tampa Florida. So this evening I gave my WRX a much deserved bath. A pair of shorts and sandals for me, no long pants, much less a sweater or jacket. Friday it was so warm I broke down and wore a Hawaiian shirt to work. Still waiting for winter.
i just did the converion using a mini alternator kit from RD Enterprises. It is very good, though I found I still needed some fabrication of the adjuster bracket from my old English Delco unit. Saved a lot of weight, though, and a lot more output.
Not exactly my thing. You’ll notice that I mentioned that I brought my wife. She’s English and I really did it for her. They had probably 200 teas to sample and if you liked one, you could buy it for about $14 a pound. That’s about L8 pound sterling for a pound of tea! I tried 4 or 5 of them and most of them tasted like someone poured a bottle of perfume into the tea bag. Even my British wife didn’t like it. Call me old fashioned, but I like plain tea without any weird flavoring. Needless to say, the best part was the drive there and back in the Elan.
No Hair, roof down, = BLISS!! LoL I’ve had several rag tops, the Spitfire in the snow storm (ok, 3 inches in an hour but this is the UK), roof down caused a multiple pile up and a tug from the law (I was toastie warm with the tonneau and a wooly hat) they let me go with a warning, something about creating a spectacle that caused a distraction hence accident, car was legit so they could swivel(I was 18 ). I just loved the roof down experience and only torrential rain would force the top on (coldest I know of was minus 6 in a Saab)
as for uprated alternators, the std unit is available with up to 55Amp as far as I’m aware, surely thats enough?
Are you confident that your primary wiring (everything associated with the supply side connecting alternator, battery, and ammeter) is up to the maximum output capability of your upgraded alternator?
If not, you may be investing in a new wiring harness or more shortly. The original design enforces no current limitation on what most agree are undersized wires.
Virtually any modern alternator will introduce you to this risk, whether you’re prepared to manage it or not.
There is only one wire that carries a large load (alternator output) consequently this wire is the only wire to be concerned with as far as proper gage is concerned. The large brown/yellow wire that came from Lucas for generator output is big enough however, when I took my alternator off of the Mazda 323, I took three or four feet of the Mitsubitshi alternator output wire because I wanted to use the Mitsubitshi connectors on the Mitsubitshi alternator. Also, I needed a longer run because instead of connecting to the voltage regulator, the wire had to go to the dash board in order to plug into the ammeter I installed. Again, the gage of the Mitsubitshi alternator output wire is no larger than the gage of the Lucas generator output wire so to answer your question, I am confident and further, (knock on the wooden dash board) I have experienced no charging problems since I installed it two years ago.
I’m only asking about smaller alternators because I think they allow more working space, look a bit neater and although they save some weight, (I’m sure I could save the same amount just by missing lunch) it’s part curiosity and part preparation - the Ford/Leyland/Lucas one I’ve had on for years is bound to give up sooner or later. The wiring was changed from dynamo to alternator back in oooh… 1981ish. So maybe you do have a point there after all, plenty of scope for a small bonfire, so if I do change - good point Frank - pinch the wire and connectors off the doner car.
I have the small Denso unit (50A) with the DB ribbed belt and pulleys. Fabricated the lower mount from my old mount, and a tensioner with two heim joints and a threaded section of aluminum tube. Looks and works great.
A word of caution on ammeters. wiring to the ammeter carries the entire current developed by the generator/alternator, with no fuse protection. If this shorts behind the dash, you have a very dangerous meltdown. In fact it is like having an out of control mini arc welder at work (1950 Chevy in my school days). I like to use a voltmeter. I know it doesn’t measure current, but I mostly use it to give me advance warning if the belt goes.
I too did the rdent conversion. Seemed a bit pricey but works fine, anyone with more electromechanical knowledge than I could do it all for sixty or seventy bucks in the USA.