Shocks in Spyder rear struts

I have the Spyder rear struts, with the adjustable lower perch (not the Spyder rear suspension kit with an upper control arm). The shock inserts are AVO. I assume Oil is still used before inserting the shock into the strut. How is the shock nut “locked” to the outer strut tube? Do I “pin punch” the strut tube as I have seen on regular Lotus struts? How about some type of Loctite on the threads? The Spyder struts appear to be thicker metal and all steel, including the bearing housings. Adding oil to the strut, I would assume it would leak out of the shock push rod hole in the nut, appearing that the struts were leaking shock oil. I have e-mailed Spyder, but have not had a reply. Is Spyder on holiday or?
Thanks in advance, Steve Vukobratovich
+2 with Spyder chassis in Arizona

Hi Steve.

As we got our stuff from Spyder at roughly the same time I am assuming we have the same set-up on the rear. Not sure of the strut brand on mine as they have no name on them.

My caps threaded in so tight I did not dimple the threads. I think I used a bit of Locktite. I did not put oil in the strut barrel. Shaft diameter on strut was larger, so did not install the metal spacers on the rod. Installed one set of the rubber spacers. Not sure this is all correct, but that’s how we did it.

Sean has been very busy lately, so a little slow on the emails. I ended up phoning several times on some details and found I got through to Sean every time. 7 hour difference, and they are there 'til 5:15 Mon to Thur, 4:15 on Fri., so have to call in the morning. Used following direct dial from North America:

011 44 1733 203986

Let me know what you find out if I did it wrong. :slight_smile:

Stu, Thanks for the reply. I did call Spyder, talked to Sean. Spyder told me tightening the top strut nut should be secure. If I want to put a drop of thread locker on the strut threads, that is fine. They did not want me to punch the threads like Lotus did. Inside the strut tubes they want anti-freeze. The anti-freeze is for heat removal as I understand. Inside the Spyder strut bearing areas, Sean told me to press the spindle bearings in dry, no Loctite or anti-sieze compounds. Spyder has been a good company to deal with.
I also asked about the front Spyder upper and lower control tubular control arms that I have. My concern is with caster and camber angles. Getting small amounts of caster adjustment appears to be no problem, using washers (I know about putting the lower turnion threads in a bind). Acording to Spyder, some camber can be had by spreading the control arms with washers, at the inner ends. My chassis is starting to be assembled, and I have not got it on the alingment rack yet. At this point my plan is to set the chassis wheel alignment with the body off, using plastic pipe for springs (the front shocks and rear struts have adjustable spring perches).
By the way, Spyder installed brackets inside the chassis for the fuel line. I never bothered to look inside the chassis until yesterday. I will keep you posted as to the chassis build. British Racing Green so far appears to be the color for the body, of course that could change.
Thanks for the time, Steve V.
+2 Spyder chassis in Arizona

Thanks Steve. Very helpful. I think I am a bit nackered on the anti-freeze deal at this point as I would have to take the whole thing apart to add it.

Glad it worked out talking to Sean directly. I agree they have been excellent to deal with. I received my starter this week and just getting the drive train installed in the next couple of weeks. As the starter was their error, it arrived at no charge, even pre-paid shipping.