I got an email from Ross Robbins asking me a question about the bonnet springs for the type 26 Elans and I havn’t a clue on where they attach to the body. The bonnet end is pretty easy but I looked at 3 of my shells at the house and have no idea of where they go. Does anyone have a decent photo of where they attach on the body? I found on picture in my colection of engine bay photos that has the springs visable but none of my Elans has that hole on the left hand side.
p.s. - they arn’t for ross’s s2 either, the question was asked by one of his good friends.
The light went off like a hammer hit it when you offered up the description. its been a while since I have thought about them, maybe I didn’t ever have them hooked up on any of the Elan’s I had over the years.
Thanks Gary
p.s. - I guess I been using Spyder chassis for too long, its about time to get one of those folded steel ones.
I found this photo under another post on the forum looks like I have seen the holes a few times and it never sunk in…
Sorry about the delay in the edit and picture, looks like you have it covered. BTW there is a picture in the original elan workshop manual on page E2 where you can see the springs dangling in the engine bay.
Glad George could help, I really didn’t have a clue until he said they go to the top rail. I forget more and more every day, soon I won’t remember the where the keys are in my pocket…
Gary
This is my best guess as to how the springs are mounted to the chassis, I still need to glass the bobbins to the bonnet to test it out. I hope this helps.
Mine are in the other way around, I think the loop would drag on the side of the bonnet or body below the bobbins but forget if I tried that way,maybe not? Be easier to remove though that way around.
Jk
Mine are the other way round as well, It would be impossible to get the loose end of the springs on to the bonnet because of the size of the radiator.
rod
Well there you go, I have not had them in with a full engine bay complement of obstructions. I was guessing Rod, maybe you can get a photo of yours so that others can see how it works and I’ll delete mine. I have been using a pair of shortened rubber bungee cords like these to do the job on my current S2
(belongs in the “mods” section), they don’t pop the bonnet like the springs but with some downward pressure at the front it opens up fine and locates the bonnet in the opening nicely.
So the question got me out in the garage this morning. The temperature got down to 25F last night and Beau’s cool down tub had 3/8 inch of ice on it. His tennis ball was frozen in it so he grabbed it and broke the ice and on went the game of slime ball. With that out of the way it was time to look at the problem we are talking about. I grabbed one of the damaged bonnets (it had both bobbins with the bolts in it but the back latch catch was broken out), it was good enough to see what was what. I tried it without the radi-ator in place and the loops at the top. I managed to get them hooked but the loops interfered with the bonnet slide sides. That satisfied some of the curiosity and I took some pictures of this. I cam in and read Rod’s post about the Rad being in the way so I pulled one out and went to drop in in the holes and noticed that there was only on showing from the top, I reached under and it was there so I got out the drill. There is no access from under, the rack is in the way. I got out the tape measure and took a reading off of the studs, about 16 inches center to center. I pinched the location of the hole that was covered with a layer of fiberglass with my thumb and index finger and marked the location with a pencil and rechecked it several times. got the drill with a 1/4 inch bit and commenced to drill. It went right through and when I tried the radi-ator it dropped right in, I thought to myself “how did that happen?” lucky I guess. Got the bonnet and tried the springs with the loops up again and with a downward hook of the loop it was a total pain in the ass, I did get one on and it was even a bigger pain to get off. I flipped the springs around, still with the loop on the top but with the hook on the end facing upward and hooked the bolt in the bobbin without much problem. I did try with the loop at the bottom and I couldn’t get the hook through both holes. Maybe someone that has more experience will weigh in and set me (and the rest of us) straight.
The guy who compiled the parts list included a picture showing the design intent (spring hook opening to the bottom) even though he, or anyone else, may not have tried it themselves…