Dear all,
Has anyone suggestions as to how to make changing the rotoflex couplngs easier. I have put bags of sand in the boot to compress suspension but am still having real problems lining up bolts to holes. I can see myself ruining the threads at this point and would be grateful for any tips. Is there a ‘best order’ to assemble or just work outwards?
If you are fitting new coulplings do not take off the steel band untill after they are fitted.
If you are using used couplings put a large jublee clamp around the coupling to compress before fitting them.
Brian
Hi,
It just is a lousy job. I have found by turning the shaft so that the bolt I am fitting is at the bottom and using an extra jack placed under the rotoflex to gently push it up as I fit the bolt will flex it enough to get the bolt in more easily. Try it it might help.
Chris
I put two stainless worm-style hose clamps together around the Rotoflex. Then I could compress or relax the compression just enough to allow the bolts to install easily. I’ve done it a few times, like everyone else and have found that they go in best at the 7:00-8:00 position (toward the rear). Compression definitely necesary at first - but as a few got installed I remember having to loosen the band a bit. Whatever you do, don’t get mad and start hitting things with a drift or hammer. Just makes things worse. The additional jack, as recommended earlier helped me a lot also.
Good luck
Paul Zimmerman
65 S2
I have done this a few times and find that once you have the rotoflex levered into nearly the right spot pushing a screwdriver through the holes will allow you do some fine adjustment, and if you are lucky then friction will hold it there. Also if you whack the bolt a bit they will go in if you are not tooooo far off. Last resort that.
I have never had much luck with the jubilee clip method when it comes to putting on rotos that have been taken off without them, but putting them on before removal works a treat. At the bottom of the page link below there is a picture of one with the clips on.
One of the advantages of a DHC is that rather than load the boot with weight, one can place a post between the top of the shock tower and the ceiling. Then jack against this to compress the rear suspension. I did this while changing my rotoflexes.
I found a neat trick. I took an old rotoflex bolt and ground the end to a rough point, a bit like a not very sharp pencil. This is easy to tap into the holes to line the holes up. You do this from the ‘wrong’ side of the doughnut. Then you gently tap a proper bolt in from the ‘right’ side. This drives the pointed bolt out as it gets replaced it with the new one. The pointed bolt drops on your head and is ready for the next hole.
I’ve clamped vise grips on the bolt, just below the head and parallel to the bolt and “steered” it into the hole. I’ve never really understood all the carping I read when it comes to this job, it’s not that tough… I LOVE Geoff’s method with the pointed bolt and will definetly try it next time I get the opportunity.
I finished this job ‘fairly easily’ thanks to the tips.
Understanding compressing the couplings was a big leap in the right direction, and doing the outboard coupling last made the job substantially easier.
Of interest the manual says all bolt heads towards the wheels but he picture in the rear suspension section shows the bolts to the differential to be the otherway round.