I have a well sorted Elan s4se which I have owned for 10 years, but recently it has developed a strange fault.
The car runs beautifully and all the electrical items work as they should. However, when i use any of the ignition related electrical components i.e. indicators, wipers, brake lights, fan, they work, but send the rev counter crazy (going back and forth from the extremes).I stop using them and the rev counter operates normally, which it has done for many years after SWLC sorted it.
I am wondering whether there is an earth fault and these components are earthing through the rev counter? But why all 4? I already have the recommended extra earths installed. I have replaced the fuse box and fuses.
Please can anyone point me in the right direction towards sorting this very annoying problem?
I’ll do what you suggest. I might be able to identify the one that is not earthing correctly, but I’m not knowledgeable enough to understand why the fault occurs with all the electrical items that come off the ignition.
The ignition switch itself could be the culprit with dirty contacts causing high resistance and consequent voltage drop at higher current loads. I had a similar issue where the indicators would stop flashing when brake lights or heater blower were used … eventually traced it to the switch and replacing it has cured the problem.
Thats really interesting!!! I have the same issue as Safi that’s been driving me mad since our car went back together, i plan to revisit it over the winter but the ignition switch would make sense. I also have another odd fault where the indicator tell tail only flashes once even though the indicators work correctly (might explain that too)
I have tried all sorts to fix my rev counter ( spiyda kit, fresh grounds, ground soldered direct to the spiyda board, new flasher relay, made sure all the bulbs are the correct wattage etc) i did check the ignition switch but not under load.
If you can get the switch apart you could certainly clean up the contacts but if the switch is the original Lucas item, the body is ceramic and very brittle … mine cracked when bending up the crimps that hold the two halves together so was not reusable … you may have better luck. You could also try squirting contact cleaner into the switch, that improved mine a bit but didn’t completely cure my problem.
Hi Chris,
Yes that’s what I fitted. You probably have your own sources but I got mine from here … ebay.co.uk/itm/231806223359
Advertised as genuine Lucas and came in a Lucas box but the item itself was unbranded so who knows
You may need to address the threaded part with a file to fit the hole in the dash … my original switch had two flats and the replacement had only one. No big deal and once fitted the switch works fine, the original lock barrel also fits and works OK.
Hope it solves your problem.
I’ve got a new switch from Mattys and i’ve got the old one out, but i’m not sure how you go about removing and refitting the old barrel to the new switch.
you put the ignition key in the switch in a certain position (can’t remember whether position one or two then through the hole in the side of the switch assembly poke a nail or other instrument into the hole which will then release the the barrel to then pull out with the key
thank you.
I have now fitted the new switch, but annoyingly it has not solved the original problem. if the problem was specific to one of the ignition related components, as opposed to all of them, it would be easier to solve. perhaps i should remove the rev counter, clean up all connections and see if that sorts it.
If you do take the rev. counter out, then it may be worth opening it up and replacing the electrolytic capacitors on the circuit board, unless this has already been done.
They may have a smoothing effect on incoming signals and they fade away with age, becoming less effective.
20 years is their normal life expectancy so it needs doing anyway.
Best of luck
Eric in Burnley
1967 S3SE DHC
The instrument was sorted out by SWLC when the electronic ignition was fitted circa 2010, and it did work ok. However, I will talk to them about your suggestion and see what they say. With all 4 ignition components affected, and with the ignition switch now ruled out as a possible culprit, the arrows are pointing to the rev counter.