Can any one hep me with the engineering name (or supply) of those turnbuckle stlye adjusters with the left and right hand thread that Kelvenden put in the rear leg of their “A” frames to effect very slight track changes. I have searched the web but cant find them. They must have a name.
I checked my rear wheel track and they are both tracked out. The left is quite severe. I dont want to do the spherical ball end thing as it is a road car and would like to keep my poly’ bushes. I have several spare “A” frames and could make them up.
I would think Kelvedon have them specially made as (if I remember) you would need a solid turn buckle with a male left and right hand thread either end with locking nuts and then custom made inserts to fit into the ends of the cut tube. Plus as it is part of the suspension you would want high tensile material.
I would have thought that demon tweeks could supply what you need for a DIY job. I am away from home at the moment so can not look in their catalogue. I will have a look for you at the weekend.
Steve, I am packed up for a move so dont have access to a D Tweaks cat’ so would be grateful if you could have gander. I think you are right!
Clive, I was meaning an engineering device of strength.I understand what you are saying. I have seen them on all sorts of conveyor brakes years ago in my mining career.
Christain, Re Kel A Frames, my view is that they look alright for very minor adjusments. Obviously not as accuate as as Heim joints. They will slightly distort the rear bush tube alignment with respect to the front bush tube. I was planning on removing after adjustment and checking the line through the tubes. I applied some heat and tweaked the angles of my frames outer bush mounts anyway before they were powered coated. They were out a tad against a scale drawing that I laid them on for reference. So a minimal adjust would not cause a problem and would re algin the bush tube. I gather Pat thomas who has them made is concerned about fitting more exact things like Poly’ bushes as there is an amount of flexibilty/compliance in the rubber ones to help with this distrortion. I am thinking that a tweak to the front should negate this problem. The bones were all heated and brazed in the begining! Or have i got this wrong, metal peolpe please tell me!
Must be better than having toe out. Also you see lot of Elans with the powder coated old bones that have not even had the bush alignment checked or the A frames for kerb impact/distprion.
New kit is not always going to be straight. I read some old threads last night and the subject of poor build has been covered before.
The Lotus part as used on the Esprit and Later 90’s Elan would probably be suitable. You will need to get a couple of suitable taps LH and RH in the pitch required which in all honesty will probably cost more than the price of the Lotus parts!
A082D6038F Adjuster Trunnion, upper link
A082W3122F Locknut, M16 x 1.5, RH thread
A082W3123F Locknut, M16 x 1.5, LH thread
Steve, thanks for looking. I have scoured kit car mags. Not found it in any of them. Re XAS, really great ride and so stable, dead pleased. My friend drove the car and was blown away by the stable feel. For me, well worth the money and I have not had a really god go yet (her indoors at the side).
Martin,
Looks just right. Thanks for the effort. I have two sets on order with P Matty. I will report back when I get them and do something with them. Had quite a lot of thought about putting inboard ball ends on etc but am concerned about getting to hard for road use. Ok for track car. Even considered one rod end on rear but quite an amount more adjustment is require inboard at the A frame width and would move the wheel axle position. With the narrow set on the outboard bit the turnbuckle should only need very subtle adjustment to tweak back.
I got the parts from P Matty. Look like they will do the job. Have drawn up some threaded sleeves to be turned and tapped. You are right. LH thread tap is ?40 but a M/C shop will do the work for me. With these made, I can have them brazed in.
Am preparing two old but good bones. Checked them against a template I drew up. If ok I may make a few more sleeves to recover my the cost.
A brew and an Ice bun at Stoneliegh do you!
I have not actually got the left tap yet. A quick tale!
I cut into an old “A” frame and blew my mind when I saw the tube thickness (or lack of it). I decided to get on to Andy at Spyder for a new set to use. Whilst having a chat he said he would sort me out some with the said system of adjustment. I have gone for this to save time.
Wife has me doing all sorts of DIY (house move). Will let you know when I have them on and hopefuly got some “toe in”.
John, I cant think of any cars that have a rear wheel “toe out” although I’m sure someone will know some, even solid axle RWD cars have some rear toe in.
As regards the driven wheels, I seemed to remember the old Mini’s had a slight “toe out” on the front wheels but that may have been due to being both steered and driven?
I checked in the manual and it shows 4.76mm to zero toe in. I am only a light weight when it come to this stuff but my car is badly out. I have 4mm off parallel giving 8 mm toe out on the left. I have 1 mm off parallel on the right giving 2 mm toe out. No wonder i go around left bends well!
My new rear adjsuatble “A” frames arrived from Andy at Spyder. Look a real nice job with a strong adjuster. Not fitted them yet but had a gander. They are tube not oval and the rear back tubes seem pretty strong. Looks like he has gone thicker wall due to the threading. I notice the gap beteen the outer bush tubes is smaller than the Lotus book and several “A” frames I have knocking around. It is approx 4 mm smaller giving less room for that forward/aft movement under braking and acceleration. I have not checked but perhap the outer is to giving more wheel inner rim to bolt head clearance. I asked Andy why and he says they have always been like that for 27 year. So, it gives me a litle problem if I retain the Mick Miller (Superflex) poly bushes as they already had to have the Chapman strut filed before they go in. I have ordered some standard bushes just in case I have to go back to them. Will up date when I have fitted these and put some toe in on my car. Just thought I would mention this as I thought quite few of us may have the rear outer poly bushes.
A question- I have liked the Mick Miller design poly’ bush at this location as it actully limits the forward and aft’ movment as mentioned above. Is it me or am I right that on standard bonded bushes the strut will flex on the rubber and move beteween the limit set only by the “A” frame bush tubes. It seems that way to me as it does not take much pressure to displace the bonded inner tube when you are pushing them in. Andy says he uses the standar bush on the Zetec Elan. Surely if the struts are a bit worn and the faces get cleaned up with the file this will allow more scope for movement. Anyone got any thoughts for Road going cars beyond track type ball ends. Or is it accepted that the Chapman strut does this movemnet. I notice the TTR one seem to have no shoulder like the MM ones and just rely on washer as a thrust face.
ps I have just bought an S4 fixed head to go trackday/racing too. It has not turned a wheel in 25 years. But a one owner car with 61K miles. BUT needs a total going over. I have also bought a 26R chassis to start
They will adjust on the car by just popping under with the spanner. Set up the strings and adjust. Also keep all the bushes so not too hard for normal road use.
Well done with car. Many hours of happy work and researching. I am going to beef up a normal chassis that I have to the spec’ it shows on here. Are you sticking with the Stromberg head?