I am about to replace the rear shocks on my 69+2. What is involved? Do I have to take out the rear window?
Any advice will be appreciated, thanks.
Geoff,
It’s not an easy job (it’s an elan!) but you don’t need to take the screen out.
Last time I did it, I had the body off so it was easy.
Getting at the top fixings is certainly a fiddly job. With the parcel shelf out and the rubber bungs out, you have limited access to the shock absorber top fixings.
Getting it all back can be a b’‘’'ger of a job! You need to get the strut through the top mounting enough to get the nut started on the thread and it can be hard on your own, someone to push from underneath with someone else to put the nut on would be better.
Good luck
I found the only really hard bit is to get the top of the new shock back in place and get the nut on. If you don’t line it up properly (which is nearly impossible, the shock will just compress as you try and push it through the hole. I found the best way was to tie some light wire (lockwire is good) arounf the thread and feed it through the top hole and the pull it up from above.
Steve.
On a +2 it is possible to remove the complete rear strut from the car in one peice. You will need either a short 9/16 AF OE spanner or a crowfoot OE on a socket extension. You can then remove the Lotacone bolts from the chassi. Once all the other bits are disconnected (drive shaft, brake linkage and caliper, bottom outer A frame bolts) it will then be free to lift out.
However it is not an easy job. but it is better than trying to compress the spring and remove the strut top nut while the strut is on the car. Also if the bloke who built the car did not grease the Lotacone bolts it will be very slow going.
Cheers and best of luck,
John
Hi,
I guess, as with all things elan, it just depends on how well your elan has been maintained. In my case the shocks were the original armstrong inserts (30 yo) and the struts had NEVER been removed. As a result the top nuts were coroded onto the struts, and the only way to remove them was to remove the rear screen (which is actually very easy and takes <10mins) and cut the nut with a cold chisel and a BIG hammer.
The nuts attaching the Lotocones also required drilling out.
In terms of reinstalling the strut, due to some issues that ment I had to repeat the process a number of times, I became a bit of an expert! Could remove and replace the entire upright (without moveing the screen) in less than 30 minutes (helped by having the fixings coated with anitsease!)
Tim
Hi
Take care removing the Lotocone mounting bolts. These are 1/2 height heads and round very easily. Try and get a very good fit with the socket and use a hex socket with flank drive or similar
Gerry M
Thanks for the tips, Now I am really looking forward to this job
I will let you know how I get on. I the plus side I do have a fully equiped machine shop to work in with more then enough tools. I also got offered a two post lift for CDN$1500 I may get that as well to help with this and the other projects I have.
Thanks for your help
Just to add to the tips for removing/fitting Lotocones…
If the original 1/2 height bolts have been used (as in the second photo below) it can be very difficult to get a socket to grip on the head of the bolt because there is a bevel/chamfer on the socket (as in the RH socket in the first picture). If you file/grind the socket flat as I did with the LH one in the picture you’ll get a much better grip on the bolt and are much less likely to round off the head.
Probably best to avoid using your best Snap on socket set for this though
C
Hi
I am interested in this thread as I currently have the MK1 Spyder rear end and have bought a second hand Lotus rear suspension that I am going to overhaul and fit later in the year.
I have not done this on a +2 yet so excuse my ingorance, but would it not be easier to remove the 2 locone bolts and remove the whole strut? Why are some people talking about removing the centre nut that retains the spring seat?
I have looked at a Spyder chassis which is what I have and the nuts apear to be welded onto the chassis so you would not have to go into the car for anything. Is the Lotus Chassis the same?
Thanks for the help.
Jason
Hi, again,
The Spyder chassis has the nuts for the Lotocone bolts welded in. The Lotus chassis used rivetnuts. These can easily come loose so you just end up the Lotocone bolts round and round. Worth welding if you have the body off.
Gerry M
If you have the original diameter rear springs, the top support cap for the spring makes access to the lotocone bolts very very difficult especially the one on the inside so easiest to remove the strut first via the nut on top of the strut shocker rod first then remove the lotocone once you have access to its mounting bolts.
When removing the top nut on the strut be careful the socket wrench does not slip and then hit and smash the rear window – very expensive slip
regards
Rohan