The conventional wisdom is that we should all have a full, down to to gel-coat respray done by a professionals at vast expense, or to do it yourself over a period of months, preferably taking the car off the road, putting on a new chassis at the same time.
I have decided to do neither of these; I cannot justify it on my +2, so I had come to terms with leaving as it is.
But it occurs to me there might be another way: just to repair the paint where it is bad. My car has several panels with bad microblistering, but most of the paint is pretty good.
If i did decide on a full repray later, the argument goes, I would have already done the repairs and preparation.
My questions are:
Has anyone ever taken this piece-meal approach?
What equipment is needed? What is the smallest viable compressor?
Any other hints?
Views?
I have some experience of sraying. I do not expect concours results - if that’s what i wanted, it would better to start with a different car.
I have exactly the same problem ~ and the same opinion in that I cannot justify spending many ?1,000s on a full professional respray.
I was thinking on doing the work a panel at a time or maybe 2 at a time over a winter or two. (e.g. boot and bonnet or doors) Where I differ from you is that the whole car will eventually need done including the metaflake roof!
I have a 2HP compressor which should be up to the job for a couple of panels at a time, though, if I was doing the whole car at once I’d get something bigger. All I really need now is a decent spray gun - that I will investigate over the Summer.
I have some experience working with cellulose paint and could get a very reasonable finish off the gun. So, if 2 pac is the way to go now; that will be a whole new experience!
It looks pretty similar to the one I’ve got, except mine has only one air outlet. I’ve got a couple of air tools that it powers happily. i.e. a grit blaster (great fun but noisy and filthy) and a small angle grinder that I picked up at a car boot sale.
Cellulose paint - no doubt would certainly do the job but I don’t know how it compares to the more modern paints.
I am becoming keen on the idea of trying to paint the panels where they need it rather than the toatal restoration approach. I am as much interested in the learning process as the result.
Reading up previous threads there are several approaches to stripping old paint. I favour trying paint stripper. Has anyone experience using UK-sourced paint stripper on Lotus fibreglass? Opinions?
Can anyone suggest a source for stripper, paint and other materials? (I am in Fleet in Hampshire). Suggestions on paint types?
There was a similar thread recently on the Europa site.
First, a respray is what was used for the majority of all repairs. Your car probably has at least one given its age.
The major reason not to do one is stress cracks. They’re guaranteed to reappear under anything other than a strip and fix job. But in how long?
I’d recommend you DIY, and that’s where I’m headed with needed touch-ups. If I spent the added cash, It’d just get scratched in my garage anyway.
Cellulose is not up to the quality of modern 2-pack. But it won’t kill you nearly as fast, either. And think a moment – the original finish wasn’t modern 2-pack. For a home job, I recommend Cellulose for safety reasons and for simplicity and live with its lack of lustre. I’ve never sprayed 2-pack but have heard it is less forgiving in application.
I’d also recommend a compressor capable of 5-7 CFM at least, depending on the gun. They don’t cost all that much. You don’t need the gun’s rating, but if you’re a lot lower you need a big air tank. I would think 2HP is marginal or not sufficient. YMMV. Be aware that larger compressors require (cannot operate properly without) higher than 15 amp service. The power cord should be appropriately short as well.
I think I read that cellulose paint was just about to be banned by the EU (or just had been) so sooner rather than later might be better if you live in the EU.
My Elan was resprayed in two pack, great finish but it’s not something you want to do yourself without breathing apparatus and a spray booth.
BTW. Have you read the excellent book by Miles Wilkins on respraying fibreglass?
Practical Classics have a feature in the current issue re using Water-based paints - saying that Cellulose has been banned wef 31/01/07. A good article spoiled by the fact they ignore anything to do with using it on GRP…
I’ve been contemplating taking this approach myself (i.e. doing areas of the car that need repairing), basically to see how well/successfully I can do it before deciding whether or not to take the pro respray route… However my car has a cellulose finish so I was going to try to use the same - assuming I can get the paint.
I gather the new regulations to reduce the emissions of Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) and implement the Paints Directive came into force as of the 1st of Jan. There is info on this on Defra’s website with an explainatory note at the following link.
It seems as though they are going to put in place a system that will allow the purchase of paints for car restoration but are waiting to see how the current changes work. I guess the key question is whether or not you can get Cellulose paint that meets the new VOC content regs. Apparently the contat at Defra is Ian Oldfield ([email protected])…
Hi there. I posted the same type of question 4 months ago. I got great advice. I hope this helps:
1.Remove paint to gelcoat with a sharp chissel.keep it dry.
2.Heat panel before applying primer.(the glass becomes porous).
3.Use Urethane 2pk primer.I will roll this on (outside) and cut it back
4.Cellulose is my choice (every supplier seems to still be offering this).2pk just seems too dangerous for the DIY person.
Good luck.
Hi guys I read that article, on the surface it says celli is banned for ‘profession auto use’, so we as hobbists can still buy it to use and industry can buy it to use on non auto work ie painting a bath.
Buoyed up by Jason’s confidence, I went in search of Cellulose paint. I asked around and was told to try Halfords! They said they could provide carnival red cellulose paint! So I ordered a sample. It arrived the next day. The trouble is: when i checked it against the car, it doesn’t match. Not even close. I am sure it isnt halfords fault, (according to lotus, the car was silver when it left the factory) but the previous owner who sprayed the car in the '80s or '90’s. Perhaps it isn’t a Lotus colour at all. Darker than carnival red, but lighter than regency.
Hi Ian. I found the best way was to stick any bits of the original paint onto the back of some cellotape you can then use this as a sample to show to someone or post to any supplier.I use Autopaint International ,but there are 3 other suppliers where I live, there is a chap on Ebay who will mix a colour close to a sample. I think you have to accept that you wont get a perfect match unless you have the code and even then it may have faded . Good luck.
Anyway, I have found a firm that will match cellulose to a sample i send them.
As Cellulose paint might be hard to get in the future I will get enough for a complete respray + ~40% for redoing parts I get wrong and/or for repairs I hope I wont need in the future. How much is needed for a respray? How much primer?
I had just the same problem when I was matching my paint. I rang Sayers my local car paint supplyers, they told me to bring a painted part of my car to them, I took my boot off and nipped it up to them, they matched it there and then and sold me a 1 ltr tin Cellulose and did me two spray cans.They charged me nothing for the paint matching and the paint was cheaper that I could find it else where ! also the match was perfect and I now have the paint code to buy it again. Ive repainted my sils and am going to repaint my bonnet soon. Is there no where near you that would do the same ?