Hi All,
Took the wheels off for their refurbish. (only parts yet to be done on the Srints reso’) Whilst it was sat on its axle stands I got stuck into doing the coreplugs that were worrying me. I also painted the block on that side the correct Grey. Looks cool!
Converted the x member to ‘removable type’… Brill… That works and if properly done no problem whatsoever!
Sorted… Just saying thanks again for the rapid answers to my question regarding the core plug bore holes.
Get the wheels back next week.
Car is then finished. 2000 mls now nearly. How many Mls do you suggest for run in? 5K be enough?
Anyone out there recommending fully synth engine oil?? After run in that is.
Well done! It has been great following your restoration and seeing you overcome all that Lotus could throw at you!
The recommended service intervals, back in the day, were at 3000 mile intervals and I would see no reason why you could not consider yourself run in by then! So 5000 miles should be more than enough.
I have run my sprint on Millers Classic sport 20/50 for the last 7-8 years really pleased with the stuff but I change it at 2,000 miles or annually. The engine has done 40K+ since an Oselli fast road bottom end rebuild 19years ago and has only had new exhaust valves and a water pump since (11 yrs ago). It uses less than 1/2 pint of oil between changes and goes like a jet. Actually it leaks oil like a sieve so consumption is better the more it is driven! If I could fix the current earthing problems I would be happy. I drove 6K the first year I owned the car which included Le Mans and Tuscany - hope you have lots of fun!
Engine oil is a subject well talked. I was though wondering if any change in thoughts re fully synthetic engine oils. I am using synth (red line) in the gearbox and I am about to put it in the diff.
Just wondering…
AND… That ramp I bought is the best thing since sliced bread.
Edinburgh Porsche this afternoon for a look/drive in a boxter S… Hmmmm… Nice car…
I use Redline 20w50 in my Elan competition engines - It holds pressure at the end of a race much better than conventional full synthetics and also shows better oxidation resistance. But at around A$120 for a US gallon its not cheap but for a $15000 engine you thrash to an inch of its life its extra insurance is worth it - but its probably overkill for a road engine .
In the Plus 2 for road use I use one of the more conventional full synthetics normally Fuchs or Valvoline - whatever is the cheapest name brand full synthetic in the shop. When I compared engines I have rebuilt run on full synthetic for their life and compared it to engines run on conventional oils I will never use conventional engine ( or gearbox / diff) oils again.
The myths around “thin” synthetic oils leaking more are just that - myths - build the engine right and it does not leak ( much) regardless of the oil used. The reality is that synthetic oils are thicker ( have a higher viscosity) at operating temperatures than conventional oils and that they retain this through a much longer use life than convetional oils whose viscosity degrades rapidly over their use life.
My thoughts exactly Rohan. I am thinking Torco 20 / 50 fully synth’ once run in. Any exp’ with Torco? I use their engine build lub’ and used their fully synth racing two stroke oil when Karting. Super stuff but you get what you pay for. Big thank you for your input.
Dont know Torco oils - not sold in Australia - typically here Valvoline and Fuchs 10w/50 full synthetic are around A$50 to A$60 for 5 litres compared to Redline 20w/50 at A$120 for 1 US gallon ( 3.8 litres).