I know this is a frequent question and I searched it, but there seem to be so many variables I thought I would beg for some advice.
Recently got my 67 Elan out of storage after about 3 years. After I got it out of storage and changed all the fluids (Oil, trans, brake, clutch, etc.) and it started right up although ran slightly rough. On my first drive with the car I made a stop for new fuel and it restarted. However, I made another stop about 5 minutes later and it refused to refire after that and continues to do so.
I have changed the battery, plugs, leads, and distributor cap and rotor to no avail. The plugs seem to be getting wet. It will turn over if I pull the plugs on the starter no problem but is pretty sluggish with the plugs in. Thinking maybe it’s the starter?
Any thoughts before I started abusing my Visa card? Thanks.
My money is on stale fuel. Drain the float chambers and refill with fresh fuel, if it starts and runs ok for 30 seconds and then stalls again I would suspect the fuel in the tank is no good.
My fuel lasts about 3 months in the tank and then will not even fire up my lawnmower.
This stuff (Fuel Preservative & Stabilizer) meant to be good but I have not got around to trying it yet:
‘have changed the battery, plugs, leads, and distributor cap and rotor to no avail’
Plugs out and spin the starter - still sluggish? - check starter earth.
Check spark with plugs out - can you feel the compression from the plug holes? smell petrol?
Disconnect fuel hose at carb and CAREFULLY check fuel is being pumped in. Pump half a pint into a holder.
If all above ok - now check spark timing - assuming original distributer use test light, TDC and pulley timing marks (cant remember offhand where the spark should come - 10-13 degrees before?)
Nothing?
Cup of tea sitting next to the car disscussing what it’s problem is sometimes helps
Thanks to all for the help. I’ll start running some of these down and I’m gonna double check to see how the spark is with the new ignition pieces.
I’m beginning to think it’s not the starter since it turns over w/o the plugs in very well. I’ll keep you posted if I have any success or if I am in need of more ideas.
Pulled the lead plug and had my mother-in-law turn it over and I could feel compression and smell gas…but no spark at all. Also pulled the back plug and got same result.
Before you zoom off and buy a new coil - get a voltmeter and check the the carbon rod in the distributor cap is still functioning properly. May sound silly but I’ve had it myself and seen it on a friend’s car which had been standing for too long. You may find that the coil is delivering to the distributor but stops at the carbon rod - does the coil-to-distributor lead spark when disconnected from the cap?
You need to adopt a proper methodical approach to this, it’s no good randomly spending money and changing parts.
After three years you should change the petrol, it will be stale.
Take one fuel line off a carb and put the end in a jar. Crank the engine and if it pumps fuel into the jar you know the pump is OK
That will do for fuel
If you are using points, replace them and the condenser.
Do a quick static timing check. Turn the engine with the ignition on, you should get a spark at the points when the crank timing mark is just before TDC (10 degrees or so)
That will do for the LT side
Fit new spark plugs
Are your cap rotor and leads good, including the coil lead?
That should do for the HT
Providing the engine cranks well on the starter and has reasonable compressions it should start …it may not be perfect but it should start
My guess, assuming the fuel is good would be a problem with the LT side of the ignition system, points, condenser or electronic ignition if fitted.
I assume the chokes are connected and working because some twinks start much easier with chokes on.
If it is sluggish cranking the battery might be a bit weak. Boost with another battery should tell you. If it doesn’t crank with 2 batteries there must be a bad connection or a dud solenoid or starter.
If the battery is a bit weak the starter can hog all the power and the ignition will suffer.
‘’ Pulled the lead plug had my mother-in-law turn it over’'. This is where u went wrong,
you shud have had your mother-in-law hold the spark plug while you turned it over !
You wouldn’t even needed to have seen the plug to know if u had a good spark…
(Hmm, I must try this with my mother in law 1st chance I get).
I changed out the coil with a new one and still am not getting any spark. In fact things appear to be worse than last time as it barely even wants to turn over now. When I turn it over I get maybe a small whirr maybe a whirr-whirr and then it won’t turn over anymore, before it would crank and almost catch it seemed like.
I filled it with new gas on it’s sole voyage since coming out of storage, the plugs smell of gas, and I can hear the fuel pump working (even got a small gas leak at the carb once). It now has new cap, rotor, wires, plugs, battery, and coil and still no spark that I can see (or that my mother-in-law could feel ).
Gonna run down some more of the things mentioned recently - checking the points and condenser (thanks nebogipfel for the list) and also try using a 2nd battery to give it a little more juice on startup to see if that does it. Again, I’ll keep you posted.
In case you didn’t know, when cranking a reluctant engine you shouldn’t crank it for more than 10 seconds at a time then allow 20 seconds for the starter to recover in between tries. The starter is only designed for short bursts and can overheat and may eventually fail.
I learned this the hard way when I went through some water running across the road in my Escort and it stalled. I cranked and cranked thinking it would eventually expel the water. It wouldn’t start even when it had dried out. When I took it to an auto electrician he said my starter was toast from overheating.