Might have found an interesting car...

Hi all!

Im currently looking at a LHD +2S located in europe.
Havent seen the car up close yet but Ive had info on it by the vendor.
-Chassis is rust and accident free (doesnt know if its been replaced)
-Engine was rebuilt a few years ago but afterwards never
driven and the airfilter box is missing
-All electrical components are working except rev counter and horn
-Tranny and axles are good
-Rotoflexes will need replacement soon
-Paint good but shows some little cracks, had a complete respray about 30 years ago
-Interior is nice, dash is cracked at several places but a new dash and original steering wheel comes with the car

At around GBP8k do you think it is worth a look? How much would a rotoflex replacement cost? Also, are the rev counter and horn failure common faults?

Being an original LHD is tempting for european roads. Do you think RHD will make life harder in Europe in the +2, being that it is wider than the baby Elans?

Thanks

Vassilis

Sounds like it should be more like half that price, especially if the chassis is original. It wouldn’t sell here in the UK unless it was… :open_mouth:

:arrow_right: Matthew

I agree you will get a top car for 8K. LHD is advantage for you but dont let the heart rule the head as shipping cost on car parts are expensive due to weight for anything that needs replacing.
Ian

^^^^ What Matthew says.

I don’t know what European prices are like, but here in the UK ?8K would buy you a very nice Plus 2 indeed, with decent dash and paint, a known replacement chassis and fully functional electrics and mechanicals.

Having said which, horn is likely to be just a bad earth or dirty contact and the other mechanical/electical itelms are fairly easily sorted. REv counters can be rebuilt/refurbished or bought refurbished on e-bay for about ?70.

Changing rotoflexes is a bastard of a job first time you do it - there’s a knack to it, but it usually involves a lot of swearing first time round. You can work out the cost in parts from Paul Matty’s online parts lists: you’ll need the 4 rotoflex couplings, plus (advisably) new nuts and bolts. Rough guess, but you’re probably going to be ?200-?300 in parts, these days?

The dashboard electrics on a Plus 2 are pretty complex, so changing the dash can be pretty daunting unless you are confident with wiring - and don’t be surprised to find, when you pull the dash, that the loom has been butchered and you feel the need for a new dashboard loom before you fit the new dashboard supplied.

Air box, trunking and filter casing can be surprisingly expensive, too, but again you can cost the parts from the Paul Matty catalogue.

Engine sounds like an unknown quantity and rebuilding Twin Cams can be very expensive if somebody got it wrong last time. One of my Elans had a ‘recently rebuilt’ engine when I bought it and it took some time to discover that the builder had fitted one of the crankshaft thrust washers the wrong way round (so it was steel backing instead of bearing material against the crank journal). Result was a bottom-end rebuild and the need to source a (fairly rare) replacement crankshaft.

If you’re serious about the car, I’d suggest some hard bargaining on the price.

I’m thinking the Elan +2 is the sleeper in the classic Lotus collection. Prices in the US can exceed $20,000 (lowly) USD and yet occasionally, you see a decent example for $8000, which I think is dirt cheap. All these being driveable examples.
I don’t believe all original chassis are bad, a close inspection may reveal a solid old car, especially if it was garaged and has a history as a “second” car.
I say, try and buy it but PERSONALLY inspect it first, especially the chassis. Does it run?
Good Luck, Eric

Hello again Vassilis, I forgot to add my two cents worth on RHD and LHD. In 1978 I smuggled two small RHD Elans out of the UK and drove them here in the USA. For me, the RHD was easy to get used to behind the wheel. HOWEVER, I could not and did not try and drive in Great Britain, I knew I’d turn left headon into someone in downtown London.
I couldn’t walk across the street with ease!
In your situation I think a RHD would be a little tougher on the continent what with all your two lane road passing.
Go for the LHD, look at it and Wi Fi us if you need help with your decision.
I’ve got a 69 +2 LHD and love it. Eric

Hi,

Parts needed to convert from RHD to LHD are: LHD steering rack, LHD steering colum bracket and a LHD dashboard. You might have to change the pedal arrangement in the pedalbox as well but do not quote me on that. ( I used the pedals form a LHD and a RHD box in order to spread the pedals so it is easier to operate the individual pedals without pressing two at the same time)
I converted my LHD US car to RHD many years ago and it is pretty straightforward but I agree with the comments made before that once you have removed the dash you will be tempted to change the wiring loom as well.
All is possible but it all takes time!!! and money.
cheers
Robin

PS I still have a LHD steering colum bracket in case you need it.

Thank you all for the replies and help! :smiley:

I have emailed the garage with futher questions… I will let you know how it goes…

Thnks again!

Vassilis

I imported a RHD car last year, and it’s really OK - you get used to it quickly. Overtaking is fine, you just need a little more space, in fact it’s an advantage on narrow mountain roads because you know just where the edge is. Only real problem is car parks with ticket machines - at least we have electric windows!

I bought privately in the UK and got a reasonably well sorted car, but it still cost me an additional ?1500 (duty not included) to get it here, registered, through the inspection and on the road. Buying long-distance has problems and expenses associated with it.

BTW, is this the car you’re looking at?

cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI … 20673&rd=1

Above is what I hope is a link to a +2 that just ended on eBay. Reserve not met at $14,000 +

Yep! Thats the one

…small world.
After reading the entire description and closely reviewing the photos I’ll add…
It’s a very pretty car, I’d be tempted to buy it as it’s about four hours by car from where I live.
However, two big red flags stop me from even considering looking, even at half the reserve price not met! One, those rear side reflectors are totally off the mark, was it hit in the rear? Secondly, the underneath shot of the front, seeing that old green paint overspray everywhere and the edge of the fiberglass helps me decide this +2, Weber head and all, can’t be worth ten g’s. Keep looking, Eric

whhooops, is it my link or the Expat+2 +2 that you were referring to?

I was reffering to the Green +2 in Europe…

Sorry about the confusion :slight_smile: !!

So, I’ve been doing some thinking and talking to people and maybe an RHD +2 isnt as easy on the continent as an earlier baby elan would be since it is narrower.
So I’ll be looking into an s4 FHC as well… Only problem with those is that I am 6’3’'/90kg and I dont know if i’ll fit. Did a search on here and I think there wont be a problem…

Anyway, best thing will be tol try to get into both and see while at donington in 2 weeks…

6’5", nearly 110kg (I’m working on that!) and I fit well enough that I still have the car after 40 years. The best bet is to find an owner who will let you try one on for size.

Ignoring driving skills, I’ve always thought shoe size, not height determined who can drive an Elan to it’s fullest. I’ve met six foot five inch tall baby Elan owners.
The +2 adds three or four shoe sizes and an inch or two of height for potential happy drivers over the smaller Elan. (But good luck if you’re six foot seven trying to climb into a plus two)

That’s true. My size-13’s (American) are right at the limit, and I can’t wear running shoes (too wide in the front). I have purchased a pair of driving shoes, very narrow and tight around the front of the foot, for that happy day when the car returns to service - measured in days now!

Like Andrew, my feet push the limits of space around the pedals. After trying several different shoes, I found a shoe by Pauma called the Drift Cat. They have thin soles (sort of tire tread like), and have virtually no excess width. For me the perfect shoe for the Elan.

Rob

Every time I climb in my Elans with the wrong boots on a little alarm goes off in my little brain. It says something like “…don’t push on the brake and throttle at the same time…or at least flip me shifter to neutral so we don’t end up under some SuckUV.”
If you’ve got big feet and are feeling very brave, trim off the right side of the brake pedal. Lightness = Speed.
Heel/Toe Joy is imperative on Elans.