ME NODIZ Pro GEN-X install in a Plus 2

[stugilmour]

Starting a thread to describe my installation of the NODIZ Pro GEN-X ignition only ECU. This cool little box provides 3D ignition capability to vintage carburetor engines. In addition it can sense and control coolant fans and data log wideband O2 AFR data with a modern tach output.

I am presently drawing together some information to post my progress so far.

Here are a few valuable links to this topic in no particular order….

This one is about the coil pack location

viewtopic.php?f=31&t=47916

Came up in a Nodiz search

viewtopic.php?f=39&t=51893

This one is about removing the stock crankshaft pulley from my car

This one is about installing the QED 36-1 trigger wheel pulley in my car

viewtopic.php?f=39&t=53547

Here is a picture of my progress so far…

[stugilmour]

In the photo above you can also see the Throttle Position Sensor. The custom bracket easily attached to my modern Weber 45’s with the provided M6 screws. M5 Screws are also provided to attach the provided sensor. In my case the sensor fit easily when clocked to the second set of mounting holes.

webcon.co.uk/products/9948- … 4045-dcoe/

I also purchased the matching 3-pin mini timer rubber shielded connector from Webcon as I was not sure if the connector that ME uses for their TPS sensor loom option was the same, and more importantly they use the same pin configuration.

webcon.co.uk/products/16793 … ector-kit/

Here for reference is a repost describing some of the other stuff I have to hand for this project …

[i]I got the sensor mount and pulley from QED. They are in the links below:

qedmotorsport.co.uk/product/cra … -36-teeth/

qedmotorsport.co.uk/product/cra … g-bracket/

They also list the compatible Ford sensor, although I got mine from the ECU supplier instead.

qedmotorsport.co.uk/product/cra … ford-type/

I am going with the ignition only version of Motorsports-Electronics ECU called the Nodiz Gen-X.

motorsport-electronics.co.uk/pr … c-harness/

The Nodiz Gen-X seems to be a relatively new model. I believe the programming software is now similar to their fuel injection products, rather than earlier versions with mode buttons and some flashing LED’s. The box is water resistant and rugged looking, although still debating whether to mount it under the bonnet or in the interior.

The system will also use a throttle position sensor. I am using this one, which was a very complete & simple screw on kit. You do need to add the matching connector & boot to make up a short loom run to the main Nodiz connector, or specify this loom leg when you purchase the complete deal from ME.

webcon.co.uk/products/9948- … 4045-dcoe/

For simplicity of installation I have opted to not use the other features included in the ignition only ECU, including coolant temperature and cooling fan control. I am happy with my already installed Clivey Boy fan controller.

Next on the list is to finish off the loom and unit mounting. I plan to test fire the engine before removing the dizzy. Once I am confident it functions OK I plan to permanently mount the Ford coil pack over top of the dizzy blanking plug; I got one one on eBay that looks a bit better than the QED offering. I am also using a coil pack mounting bracket from TriggerWheels.com, but that still needs some MacGyvering. The idea is the engine can easily be pulled by simply disconnecting the coil pack, TPS, and CPS at their respective sealed connectors and leaving the coil pack and wires in place.

Basically the plan is to retain my new style Weber 45’s but get better ignition performance. I am particularly wanting more advance at highway cruising speed with very small throttle openings. Struggling to get smooth engine performance and reasonable fuel economy without vacuum advance.

Once I get the Nodiz working I am hoping to do up a more complete thread on how it works and so forth. Although the ECU is preloaded with a suitable ignition curve the system will require one time only programming to set the position of the missing tooth relative to TDC. Other than the three connections to the engine, the only other wiring required is a four way connector with ground, pure clean 12v power supply, ignition trigger wire, and tach signal output, so the whole thing is really quite simple and slimmed down.

Anyway, I got the trigger wheel mounted and a very nice consistent gap to the sensor, although I had to bend the mount slightly. The QED mount included three 1 1/4” hex head cap screws, but I separately purchased longer socket head screws to stay consistent with the other oil pan fasteners. Hopefully I haven’t created a pan leak.

I am presently waiting on a correct fan belt, which has to be installed before the sensor is buttoned up for the final time.
[/i]

[h20hamelan]

Appreciate the wright-up, as always Stu!

[Lotus54]

I am fitting a DTAFast no distributor system to my Elan. I got it from QED, no instructions at all and the base map had incorrect info…

It looks like you used the same pully/sensor setup. Any pictures of which tooth you removed? I came to the conclusion I did need to remove one- but no response from QED yet.
I did read DTA instructions on setting angle of missing tooth vrs TDC, so I should be able to figure it out.

But very interested in what you do on yours.

Mark

[ill_will]

It may be different for the DTA setup, but for the Emerald one with a 36-1 trigger wheel they recommend the trailing edge of the missing tooth is at approx 90 BTDC. The QED bracket puts the sensor at approx 90 degrees BTDC, suggesting the missing tooth is aligned with the crank TDC on the number 1 cylinder. (This is what I did, but haven’t got it fully built yet so can’t confirm.)

The exact offset can apparently be adjusted in the software, but they recommend it is between 60 and 120 Deg BTDC.

[stugilmour]

Well described above. Hopefully I did it correctly, or of course the new pulley is toast. Really won’t know if it works until we try to fire it up.

Here is my reasoning and procedure. Note the QED pulley is not marked for TDC when you receive it, so it is kind of a two step process.

As mentioned above they point out in the NoDiz instructions that the missing tooth has to pass the sensor head approximately 90 degrees ahead of TDC on cylinder one. This actually seems to be pretty standard across manufacturers. The idea is the missing tooth triggers the advance calculation well ahead of when spark is required. This gives time for the ECU to compute, and also makes the required advance to be available. Not sure where I read it, but one guy pointed out that really the ECU is calculating the amount to retard the spark from the initial triggering event at 90 degrees BTDC.

From that understanding, I figured the missing tooth has to be about 9 teeth ahead of the sensor location when the engine is at TDC.

I basically removed the original pulley, and used it to make a similar timing mark on the new QED pulley by carefully aligning the keyways. Then I used the new timing mark to get to TDC and marked the sensor location on the trigger wheel. The required missing tooth is nine teeth clockwise from where the sensor is at TDC.

I can’t recall how I managed, but I only ended up having to mount the new pulley with the key once.

Hope that helps. It is kind of a confusing thing to describe, but when you are all done and have the engine at TDC on number one, the missing tooth will be 90 degrees after the sensor location.

I will add some better pictures when I get back into town.

I also considered the DTAFast setup and made an email request for a quote from QED, but they never got back. I decided to just get the bracket and trigger wheel from them.

I would have been keen on their package if I could get everything from one supplier, as shipping to Canada from multiple suppliers is more hassle and cost. When I did place the QED order for the wheel and bracket, they replied with a proper itemized quote (with all shipping and handling) and only then asked for payment.

So in the end it was probably my misunderstanding of their ordering procedure. I probably should have just made an online order for the stuff I figured I needed, and sort out any questions after they got back with an itemized quote. Oh well.

[Lotus54]

Unless I hear differently from QED soon, I will measure and remove a tooth on the setup I got from them. The DTAFast system goes into setting the degrees - I will go in the middle of the range and remove one.

QED sent no instructions (just the stuff from DTAFast, which are good, but generic). I asked for some, but they didn’t respond.

I will make a post describing what I did (after I make it work) to help anyone else doing it. Yes, too much money for return I’m sure, but for me- I think it will be worth it.

[DamianB]

In case it helps. Here is a photo of my setup. QED pulley & CPS for Nodiz
The red line marks my crank’s TDC and you can see where I have removed one tooth from the pulley.
So the missing QED tooth passes the Crank Position Sensor when the red line is approximately 90 degrees before the TDC mark on the front of the engine/water pump casting.
[NOTE: Photo was taken before I had properly adjusted the gap between CPS and pulley. It needs to be much closer than shown in photo]

[stugilmour]

Looks like I did it correctly. This is the best picture I have on my phone. It shows the engine at TDC with the missing tooth approximately 90 degrees clockwise after the sensor.

[Lotus54]

Please let me know what you have (then finalize) on ignition map.
Mine has a preloaded one, but I am suspect on numbers.

I will save what is in there, then start with about what original distributor has- then modify for light throttle etc.
At least that is my plan now.

[Lotus54]

This is the advance map that came with the unit.
Those idle specs seem way, way too much- especially at no throttle. But perhaps that actually works?

Throttle opening across top (sorry- I cut it off).
RPM along left.

I did save original, but already changed those numbers so that idle is 10º and moving up more like what the specs in the Miles Wilkins book says. Certainly I will adjust later for best running and maybe better economy at very light throttle. Have to match up with carb settings of course. I have a wideband O2 sensor so can monitor while driving.

I would like to see what the NODIZ base settings are- it would be interesting.

BTW, it came with a quite high max RPM, I have changed it to do about 6700 max, with the gradual cylinder cuts before that. Maybe this is for a quite high spec engine? I do not know, I cannot get any info from QED.

[DamianB]

I have pasted here the ignition map from my Nodiz. Installed on a twincam, 420 cams with 40DCOEs.
In my case RPM across the top X Axis and Throttle % down the Y Axis

[Lotus54]

Thanks!
That looks much more like how I reprogrammed mine for a base.

I have ‘C’ cams, big valves and port/polish work w/33mm chokes. Not sure what else.

Thanks again

[stugilmour]

@DamianB

I have pasted here the ignition map from my Nodiz. Installed on a twincam, 420 cams with 40DCOEs.
In my case RPM across the top X Axis and Throttle % down the Y Axis

Thanks for posting Damian. Is that the ignition map that came pre-loaded on your NoDiz when shipped? Hoping I won’t have to alter the pre-flashed data other than the timing offset to correct for the exact missing tooth location.

Thx

Stu

[DamianB]

My map shared is a lightly modified version of the ford 4 cylinder base map included with the Nodiz.
I drove on the base map for around 50 miles to get the car to the rolling road where it was fine tuned.

[stugilmour]

Sorry for the longish break in this project.

I got the ME supplied Ford coil pack mounted. The coil pack is often referred to as a Zetec second generation model. The second generation uses a “pin and tower” connection for the spark plug leads. Note the NoDiz does not require a second EDIS module to drive the coil pack, just a standard three conductor connection to the ECU.

I used a coil pack mount from Trigger Wheels in the UK.

trigger-wheels.com/store/contents/en-uk/p27.html

Single Coil Pack Bracket

Mounting bracket for a single 4-cylinder coilpack. Fits both 1st and 2nd gen coilpacks

The mounting took a couple of attempts to get right. I left the carbs in place, but still had the radiator removed. I wanted to make sure I could remove and re-install the coil pack with the radiator in place.

To plug the distributor hole I used this bung from eBay:

Classic mini A+ series engine distributor dizzy hole blanking bung plug rover

Distributor blanking plug for the A+ series engine.
Seal included for an air tight fitment.
Designed to utilize the existing distributor clamp
Will send 1st class next working day

I used a ~1/2” tall epoxied stack of fender washers over top of the 1/4” UNC threaded bracket hole to match the bung height.

I cut down a 1/4” UNC threaded bolt to form a stud. The stud solidly attaches some 1/2” x 1-1/2” steel channel to cover the washer stack and bung.

Edited to add an important caution. The dizzy bracket hole goes straight thru the block. The stud was capable of bottoming out on (I expect) the jack shaft; at any rate it fouls something in there. I had to be very careful I was not rotating the stud inward while installing the jam nut in the 1/2” channel.

The Coil pack bracket (with coil pack attached) is bolted to the stud. This is a bit awkward but doable. Unfortunately there is insufficient clearance to the carb bodies to just use four studs to mount the coil pack to the bracket and be able to remove only the pack.

The steel channel I used was from Home Depot

homedepot.ca/product/bailey … 1000165775

Bailey Metal Products Steel Channel
1 1/2 inch X1/2 inch X12 ft. 16G
Model # 150U50-54X144PC|Store SKU # 1000165775

Here is a picture of the mounted coil pack. It stands slightly higher than the stock dizzy. I anticipate new custom length spark plug leads can be easily be routed up between the two carbs.

Next up will be the NoDiz loom and spark plug leads.

[stugilmour]

Thanks to everyone that replied to my spark plug lead questions on this thread

viewtopic.php?f=38&t=54364

I followed up with Magnecor using an available online form to specify requirements. For reference here is their very complete reply, actually received over the Memorial Day weekend.

Hi Stuart
The price for us to make that set with our KV85, 8.5mm wire with 90* coil end with a pin type terminal and straight spark plug boots in the lengths you gave is $129.56 plus shipping. We ship USPS to Canada.
The straight, red spark plug boot we have is 3.5” long so just a little shorter than what you have but by the looks of it, it should be ok. We don’t have a high temp coil boot. The coil boot I will use is for the pin type terminal bent at 90* and it is black.
magnecorusa.com/custom/ Here is a link to some of our boots. I will be using the DB66 which can be found under COIL AND DISTRIBUTOR BOOTS 2 and SP11-S-HT which can be found under SPARK PLUG BOOTS 6.
You can call the number below and order or you can email. I will need credit card information along with billing and shipping address if it is different than what you provided. We are here Monday-Thursday 8-3 Eastern time.

We look forward to working with you!

Thanks

Heather
Magnecor USA

I am going to complete the order tomorrow after the holiday weekend. I am probably going to shorten all the lead lengths by a few inches now that I have the coil pack mounted. At any rate, if you prefer one could assemble your own leads from the information Magnecor provided. My thought is I will have enough going on to restart the car without worrying about the details of assembling leads.

All in all really pleased with Magnecor. Thanks again for the recommendation.

Stu

[stugilmour]

I have tentatively figured out the loom requirements. Note I am working with an ME supplied terminated loom specified for a Zetec. If I had it to do over again, I would probably start with their fly lead loom, and specify the addition of the TPS leg. Either way I am finding I am having to de-pin the loom legs to easily fit thru the existing hole in my firewall.

The NoDiz loom is very well made. Seems a bit of a shame to fiddle with it.

Edited to add a loom leg

There are five separate legs to the loom, all coming from the main ECU plug. Loom leg lengths and details….

• Coil Pack three conductor leg 62”. Leg encased in flexible tube. Terminated with the correct oval Generation 2 coil pack plug. Should be easy to de-pin and shorten the two coil trigger wires at the ECU plug. The red 12v ignition supply wire is included in the unterminated leg (discussed below) so this conductor can be easily adjusted to correct length; note this conductor is not connected to the main ECU plug, rather it is folded over at the plug. Would be easier to adjust the length of a fly lead style loom at the coil pack end and then install the ME supplied coil plug with the correct pin sockets.
• Crank Position Sensor (CPS) two conductor shielded leg 83”. Leg encased in flexible tube. ECU plug end includes a ground connection for the shielding, which is going to make shortening this leg difficult. More on that deal when I get it done. After researching the topic, I now realize the sensor end of this leg is actually not grounded (to prevent forming a ground loop), so again a fly lead version and the correct connector and pins would probably have been easier to deal with.
• I will be adding an additional non-stock leg to the five to bring AFR data to the ECU for logging. My AEM AFR gauge provides Analog 0-5v output with a Brown wire for sensor ground and a White wire for 0 to 5v variable output. The idea is to connect this directly to theNoDiz ECU using pins A6 and A2 respectively. Pin A2 is dedicated/labelled to Inlet Temperature, which will not be required in my installation. Note pin A6 is also used for the TPS sensor ground, so re-pinning A6 would probably be required even if the fly lead style loom had been ordered with the TPS leg included. Thanks to @DamianB for this top tip.
• The AEM AFR also requires chassis ground (Black) and 12v ignition supply (Red). I will pick up these two wires at my main connector under the bonnet where all the other wires are assembled.
• Throttle Position Sensor leg was not included in my loom. ME offers this as a loom option, but I wasn’t sure what connector and TPS they use, so opted to make this leg up myself. In hindsight it would probably be better to order this leg included in the loom. Note the Webcon supplied TPS mounting kit came with the required connectors, so very easy if this leg was included as a fly lead leg.
• The separate conductor (unterminated) leg in my loom consists of four conductors for chassis ground (Thick Black), Tach signal (Brown), Coil 12v ignition supply (Thick Red), and ECU power supply (Thin Red). The supplied wires are sufficiently long so no worries there; I didn’t measure them. They are not wrapped in flexible tubing, just loose leads. Easy to deal with and encase in some heat shrink tubing after trimmed to length. All of the conductors will go straight to my existing main under bonnet loom connector.
• Edited to add the fifth loom leg, if I didn’t loose count. Anyway, I opted for an included serial cable which is a short stub leg off the main ECU connector. They also optionally supply an extension lead and USB adapter for this leg. This will work perfectly with the ECU installed in the passenger tunnel, less so for under bonnet.

Current plan is to connect the coil pack and AFR 12v supplies and chassis grounds together at my under bonnet connector. This leg can be separately fused at about 10 amps. I think I will be OK with coil supply coming directly from the ignition switch. Any comments on this strategy welcome; I have a second fused relay to hand and could use a similar strategy to the ECU supply below.

The recommended practice for ECU supply is to install a make and break relay using the ignition switch supply as a trigger and getting the ECU power from the cleanest source, which in my case is readily available at my under bonnet main connector. This will be separately fused for 3 amps with an integrated relay and fuse.

So that’s the plan.

The toughest part is going to be shortening the shielded CPS. There are inline videos that show this procedure using a heat shrink style solder connector to pick up the shield ground and the two conductors emerging out the end of the solder blob. I am kind of nervous about pulling this off successfully, and a miss would require a whole bunch of hassle. I may just simply purchase a new standard Ford CPS connector plug and shorten this leg at the crank sensor end. Not a big deal now as I will be waiting on the spark plug leads anyway.

Stu

[stugilmour]

A quick note on new socket connectors for the ME NoDiz ECU connector. The ME web store unfortunately does not list these as an easily purchased item. They were able to supply me some, but they were extremely expensive (with international shipping and handling) and difficult to pay for because it was a custom order.

Here are the correct pin sockets from eBay UK. Note the following two sizes are used in this connector.

10 x Female Socket Terminals to fit Genuine Delphi 2.8mm Sicma Sealed Series
Terminals Part Number: 211CC3S2120

10 x Female Socket Terminals to fit Delphi 1.5mm Sicma Sealed Series
Delphi Part No.: 211CC2S1160P

The supplier I used is called 3 Way Components on eBay. Unfortunately I can’t simply copy an item link from eBay because they have changed how it works. I have included a picture of one size for reference.

Note the pin sockets use a standard double fold style crimp. That said, the connector block is a bit awkward to work with as it includes a moisture proof seal. 20 20 hindsight indicates working on the other ends of the various loom runs is probably the way to go.

At any rate, the NoDiz kit includes a few socket terminals in both sizes. Unfortunately with all the re-pinning in my installation I needed a few more.

[stugilmour]

When I was reviewing available ignition systems I couldn’t find dimensional data for the NoDiz Gen X Pro ECU. They are working on posting a proper drawing with mounting hole centres.

Here are a few pictures of the unit. Allow about 4 1/2” wide by 5” long and 1 3/4” tall, without including extra length for the attached plug. The unit is very light, under half a pound at a guess. Don’t confuse the NoDiz with their larger Fuel Injection ECU, which has two connectors and is considerably larger.

According to ME the unit is weather proof and can be mounted under the bonnet. I could not see an easy under bonnet area in my LHD Plus 2, but I have a bunch of extra stuff in the way. Under bonnet mounting would simplify things considerably.

I am mounting the ECU on the right (passenger) side interior in the pocket formed by the right side tunnel bulkhead and the inner fender fibreglass. I used this spot to mount my previous MSD ignition box, which is considerably larger.

Hopefully I will be able to pull each loom leg, terminated with pre-installed connectors, up to the firewall so I can work at a table to complete the re-pinning at the ECU plug without having ridiculously long runs in the finished product.

My plan is to use a small plastic panel to hold the ECU power supply relay and the ECU. I have a small metal basket mounted already that will hold the whole affair in some cushioning foam.

Note the ECU case does not require grounding.

Stu