I am looking at doing this job on my 67 S3. I have read that I must remove the head, because the timing chain tensioner is up in the head area. How did you deal with removing just the lower timing case and trying to remove the timing chain tensioner?
Also, not being familiar with all the parts, did you have to deal with the timing chain and affect the timing?
You can do the pump overhaul for the standard front cover without removing the head but you have to take off the sump and refitting and resealing the front cover so it does not leak is very difficult. I did it once but would not try it again. Remove the head makes thee whole job much easier but this requires retiming the cams which is not to difficult, just be careful not to rotate the engine so the pistons do not hit the valves
cheers
Rohan
The tensioner is an easy removal. Remove the side tensioner bolt and the front cover bolt and it will drop out. Happily, we didn’t have problems with the front cover. However, sealing the oil sump was a bit tricky. I must admit the rear half moon oil pan seal may need revisiting, as it is not quite at 100%. Small drip noted which will be addressed later on.
Rohan: Thanks for this
Thanks for this, I am gathering the courage to attempt this.
Hello everyone,
Best wishes for the New Year.
First of all, I would like to thank Rohan for sharing his valuable knowledge and time with me.
I am rebuilding my Twincam with a timing cover and a Burton cartridge water pump to replace my cover, which had to be dismantled several times with a pickaxe.
I am encountering the following problem: the water pump pulley does not align with the crankshaft pulley. The water pump pulley is about 4 mm too far from the casing, even though its support is mounted as far back as possible against the cartridge casing.
Has anyone else encountered this problem, and how did they solve it?
The solution I am considering is to fit a spacer on the crankshaft between the pulley and the timing gear to move the crankshaft pulley 4 mm further away.
Does anyone see any drawbacks to this solution?
Regards
Stéphane
Have you fitted the pulley boss correctly? The flat side faces the water pump, not the pulley.
Mike
Hello Mike,
Yes of course !
Hi Stephane,
I fitted a Button set up and had a similar issue. The boss which the steel pulley attaches to is a press fit onto the pump shaft and I found I could press it a few mm further onto the shaft to get the alignment correct. This resulted in a very small clearance to the bolt heads behind the pulley but iirc they supply bolts with modified heads which worked ok. (Possibly thinner washers too?)
Let me see if I have any photos.
Cheers,
Will
This post has some details (there is some more commentary higher up the thread too) Short block long stroke engine - #38 by ill_will
Hi Stephane
If its the pulley flange hitting the nose of the pump cartridge when pressed on before it aligns the water pump pulley with the crank pulley then something is wrong in the components or their assembly. The common problem as others have observed is the pulley itself hitting the locating bolts for the cartridge which just requires use of different bolts or machining down the bolts you have
The spare Burton cartridge I have is 32.55 mm from the face of the flange where it mounts on the front cover to the nose. i would check that dimension first as machining errors are certainly possible.
If you still have the sump off the engine a photo of the assembly of components on the crank nose i.e. sprocket, slinger, crank pully would potentially show if something is strange their.
The engine you have rebuilt had been rebuilt previously with many errors and maybe their is something we did not pickup. Some things to check
I cant remember if you were using the original standard cast iron pulley. The crank pulley may have been machined on its end to make it fit closer to the front cover at some point possibly due to the water pump pulley flange being incorrectly positioned in some previous rebuild. The length of the shaft on the rear of the crank pulley should be 29.8 mm
I presume you have the thrust bearings in place correctly on both sides of the centre main bearing
The Overall height of the water pump pulley should be 37.1 mm.
It must be possible to determine what the issue is through photos and measurements of the crank and water pump assembly components. In the end fitting a spacer to move the pulley out 4mm may be the best solution depending what is the cause
cheers
Rohan
Hi Rohan,
Thanks for the dimensions. My parts have slight differences totalling 3.0 mm. That’s what’s needed for the pulleys to be correctly aligned. I assembled it with a spacer behind the crankshaft pulley, which shouldn’t be a problem. The modified hexagon socket screws supplied by Burton touch the pulley. Hexagon head screws work perfectly.
Thank you for your advice.
Regards
Stéphane
Hi Stephane
While the 3 mm spacer behind the pully has fixed the problem with the water pump pully I am still concerned about why the problem in the first place. Some other components on the crank nose or the crank itself must be machined wrong. I would inspect closely to ensure the chain sprocket is correctly aligned. Potentially a ford chain sprocket has been used in the past and modified to get it to align with the chain and the modifications have affected the overall assembly length
cheers
Rohan
Hi Rohan,
The distribution chain is correctly aligned and the sprocket and chain assembly showed no abnormal wear when dismantled. The crankshaft pulley was about 1.5 mm shorter than your measurements, but I couldn’t see any signs of machining that weren’t original. The water pump pulley also differed by 1.5 mm from your measurements, but I couldn’t tell if it was original. The machining of the Burton timing cover was not very good and had some defects.
The alignment of the pulleys with the original timing cover was perfect. I noticed this when taking measurements for the construction of my LHD alternator bracket. However, I wouldn’t be surprised if there was a machining problem with the cover!
I checked carefully to see if my assembly could cause a problem, and I don’t think so. I think I’ll leave it as it is and hope for the best 
Regards
Stéphane
Potentially the old timing cover had been machined to correct warping. Maybe the Kent engine pulleys are shorter also ?
But like you say if it works and your happy with the alignment it should be OK.
cheers
Rohan