That works fine for the +2, John, but not for a Sprint. ![]()
Brian, 2" of male spline welded to propshaft into a much longer female spine being part of the yoke, PS good to chat, John.
Brian (friend)
Not 100% but think Aussie john has a plus2?
John ![]()
I think John is referring to the sliding spline fitted in the +2 shaft which has a flange each end & brian is referring to the sliding yoke on the std. elan as props are different
Ian
I spoke to Aussie John today and he has a +2 propshaft that has been shortened to fit an Elan.
The slip yoke on the +2 is the part that fits to the gearbox end, and the male spline is on the end of the tube that fits to the diff end.
My only concern from Aussie John is the length of spline engagement - I would expect about 75mm.
I shall go to see one of the local propshaft makers this week to discuss this issue.
AussieJohn,
Best I can tell is that the distance between the gearbox and diff flanges is 30 inches.
The length of the sliding spline that is visible is 1 inch.
Note that this is a purpose-made propshaft, not a modified +0 or +2 variant.
HTH.
Regards,
Stuart.
Thanks Stuart, it seems we are all around a similar setup, cheers, John.
Hi Brian, its a little off subject but regarding a hole in the boot, your pictures helped greatly. I have been wanting to cut a hole but was not sure where actually without too many missed cuts. I have the same size rubber plug but have been told that it makes too big of a hole. I also have 2" plug. My question is the diff filler nut in the center of your plug location? And would 2" be too small to access the Diff filler plug?
Thanks again, Sarto
Hi Sarto,
I did this mod when the diff was out, and thought what a stupid place to put the filler hole. The diff was put back complete with oil, but what about the future?
The item I used is a boat access cover about 5" diameter. I have to confess that it was not an original idea - I got it from this forum.
I also had a number of large rubber plugs, but thought an access cover was a better and more professional method.
These additional pictures may be more descriptive than my first picture:
Thanks Brian, I like that you used a boat flange to keep the structure in place after cutting out the fiberglass. Real professional!! Now that you mentioned it, I think it was Phil who installed one.
After you installed the diff. where in the 5 inch hole was the drain plug positioned? In the middle or is it offsite in any direction? Your finished opening looks like about 4". I can get a good idea from your photos where to cut. I’m still thinking that a 3 5/8 inch hole and the rubber plug I pictured, would be more my speed, (simple) The hole would have to be positioned just right to fit a wrench and a filling tube.
It is about time to check and/or change the oil. Funny that there is no drain plug to change and get out any metal pits etc. They must pump it out if they have to.
Thanks again, Sarto
Sarto,
I’m pretty sure my hole is about 1" left of center to the chassis, and the filler is left of center of the hole. If you put your hole about 2" left of center it should be OK. However, the height position is not so certain. I would drill a 1" hole using John’s picture as a guide, then make the necessary adjustment.
Sarto - I think you must be able to measure where to drill the hole fairly easily as I managed to drill a 1" hole right in line with the filler
bolt many years ago - too many to remember how I did it but it’s too accurate to be a guess.
The 1" hole is just large enough to pass some plastic tubing right through into the diff once the plug is removed and the oil is then poured down the tubing. Worked ok for me back in the summer. A larger hole would make it easier as you could remove the plug through it but the 1" hole is less visible and easily filled with a wiring grommet.
Hi John
Can you post up a picture of your modifications please ?
I will be fitting an elite box to my Ford Anglia
Boo Hiss !
in the coming months and would like to try and keep the origional gearstick position if possible. Is your modified rear tail section now surlus to your requirements ![]()
Kind Regards
Craig
Craig
Sorry,didn’t keep any ,I flung it as hard as I could,like a dummy from a pram…
John ![]()
Buggers ![]()
Looks like i will have to move the gearstick position then ![]()
Thanks fro your reply though ![]()
Dave,
I’ve just bought a 73mm diameter Bosch cobalt steel cutter (from eBay) with the intension of cutting 2 holes adjacent to where the end of the propshaft and slip yoke meet. This should enable me to get both hands in to put the pair together, and then blank the holes with rubber bungs.
All I need to do now is make sure my dimensions are correct.
…Go for it Brian…You’re adding lightness…but not enough yet to affect your bump steer…
John ![]()
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