bonjour Terry,
what i used in the past when i converted a +2 to alternater was a bracket from a ford escort.
You could do the same with a secondhand escort/cortina/capri bracket and just get the holes to mount the alternater modified. Extend the mounting lugs and drill new holes in higher position. If you do this, try to get the special fixing screws with the bracket. They have a special head with a serrated head to stop them coming undone
bon courage A+ Alan B
Alan
I have seen a few of these on eBay and they are aluminium and don’t really look the right shape.
I think I may just have to get our little village metal man to make one.
He repaired the anti roll bar on the +2 and made a good job and I have to get him to make the headlamp rod I am anyway. He also made a good job of our gates and external balustrading
That bracket style with the arm coming up to connect to the bolt hole in the top of the block was used by Ford for Escorts with Alternators in Australia and I presume elsewhere. The orginals I have sen here were gavlanished steel. You can use it on a twin cam if your block has the upper tapped hole in the square boss just below the cylinder head on the front left but it was never a Lotsu original style as far as i am aware.
It refers to a Pinto bracket and threaded rod but it isn’t clear if the required clearance could have been achieved with a Lucas unit or not…maybe it was just a case of Lucas bashing that lead to a “Chevy” unit.
BTW: This RS2000 bracket appeared on ebay recently…I assume it’s “Pintoesque”
Is this the one Rohan ? Ford also used it on their competition twincam engines in the UK… Don’t know what the additional tapped hole at the top was for though.
Yes that is the bracket i was referring to. The square boss at the top of the block was part of the jig arrangements for machining the engine block. At some stage Ford started tapping a hole in it but this hole was being drilled and tapped well before they introduced this alternator bracket. I presume the tapped hole was also part of the engine machining jig arrangements and then Ford adopted it also for the alternstor bracket mounting at a later date just becasue it was there already.
It’s also shown on their Twincam page, so will fit the block. BUT what alternators are they designed for & issue of height of pivot points re LHD clearance??
Richard
I think that bracket may have a rubber bush through it. as for height it only has to be just a bit over 1/2 inch over the block mountings so should be Ok.
I am quite excited over this bracket , well as much as you can get excited over a bracket.
AND I have to find out the price!
Terry,
Attached is the alternator and bracket that I have installed on my federal S4. I send this only to show how simple the bracket is, not that it would fit your alternator, but that one could be made very easily. I was never able to get the adjustable connector to fit at the top, and instead used a part similar to what you pictured from an old volvo.
Salut ? tous
I have the same question about alternator fitting. I’m still currently converting my car from RHD to a LHD.
An alternator had been fitted by some previous owner using the original generator bracket.
I must change it to make space for the steering column way.
What about this one sold by SJ Sportscars ?
I did look into having a batch of these made - must be all of 10 years ago now. I had a client that had an aluminium foundry and he said he had contacts in foundries all around the UK and that someone would be able to take a mould and cast some for me. The ‘steel’ is apparently known as Spheroidal Graphite and needs to be this material for the required strength. He advised me that aluminium would not be up to the job. In the end he let me down
I am no metallurgist so I don’t know whether what I was told was correct or not. However this might be a consideration if someone wants to get them made.
Steve
Edit: be careful of the ones without a ‘tail’ that bolts into the front cover as this aspect does give much added strength.
I’m no metallurgist either…but suspect he was referring to ductile cast iron aka nodular iron or [i]spheroidal-graphite /icast iron ( i.e. grey iron innoculated to change the graphite into nodules/spheres…as found in twink cast crankshafts)
Aluminium not up to the job What grade? What job? For us mere mortals or a Rohan, and other racers, type job?
The company mentioned in the attached pictures can supply the bracket shown. This is a rubber insulated bracket and needs to have the alternator grounded to work properly, don’t ask me how I know, it was not a pretty event at the time. [attachment=2]alternator-bracket-bda.jpg[/attachment]
You will also see a picture of the Nylon Alternator Strap and the clamps that straddle the strap. These will take all the vibration the engine can throw at it as they were designed for the Escort rally cars with the BDA engine that revs to 10,000rpm regularly.[attachment=1]nylon-alternator-strap.jpg[/attachment][attachment=0]alternator-strap-clamp.jpg[/attachment]
I would not normally give the supplier and their may well be other rally engine builders in the UK or other places that carry this type of bracket but it will solve the vibration problem but is used in a left hand sided engine configuration for these purposes.
i am looking for the alternator LHD brackets set for may Lotus Elan Sprint LHD (ex federal). Anyone able to suggest a supply where to find a new monting bracket LHD? or a draw with sizes, position of the holes in order to make one.