KO Spinners Bevel Angle

Hi,

Does anyone know the angle of the bevel on the knock-off spinners? Is the angle on the wheels the same?

Thanks,
Dan

Do you mean the “mating surface” of the spinner hub nut to the wheel center hole?
The wheel is beveled or curved convex-like. The spinner hub has a flatter, less beveled/curved surface to mate with the wheel. Usually the paint wears away in one very narrow contact band on that mating surface. I don’t know that you could give an angle or degree measurement of the beveled surface on the wheel, but perhaps possibly the spinner. I suppose I can get my protractor and estimate an angle in degrees. are you machining something of your own? what exactly are you looking to do?

i could measure the angle, as i DO have the proper instrument, if nobody here has it - presuming you need the angle which you’d use to make yourself a set of KO rims!? sandy

Sandy,

Thank you.

I am making the wheel centers that the spinners mate up against. The set of alloy wheels did not come with any and they can’t mate against the raw aluminum.

Thanks,
Dan

On my Plus2, my Nader nuts are engraved “FOR STEEL WHEELS ONLY”.

On my Plus2, my Nader nuts are engraved “FOR STEEL WHEELS ONLY”. So, what makes the difference between the steel wheels and the Lotus aluminum wheels, so far as the knock ons? Why can you replace the steel wheels on a 26/36/45’s with Minilites without problems? The knock ons on my S2 do not have any restrictions as to wheel material.

I have only seen them marked “FOR ALLOY WHEELS ONLY” that’s Nader Nuts. For me Spinners with Ears are only for steel Wheels
Alan

I have spinners with ears on my car, and it is running the original alloy wheels…

Well, they can and do but I suspect it might depend on the alloy and the depth of the wheel at the centre.

My JAP wheels mate directly to the spinner at an angle of 45 degrees as I remember.

I agree with Roy on the angle as I have just checked a spinner and found it to have an included angle of 90 deg.

I have some Minilite wheels and the nut seats on the alloy of the wheel. Edit:- the nut seats on an alloy insert set into the wheel.
Cheers
John

the issue of the inserts and metal types has to be one of two things:

  1. electrolysis? differing metals creating corrosion by contact, or;
  2. metallurgy? differing “strengths” of the different metals not compatible? harder steel crushing weaker alloy?

ok, you scientists and engineers out there…chime in! :slight_smile:


On the Lotus +2S Alloys they have these Inserts in the centre of the Wheel for the Nader Nut/ Hexagonal Nut
Alan

Alan,

Thank you for the picture.

The inserts look like they are made of a thin metal, almost stamped. I was designing some that are similar to the ones on the Panasports.

Thanks,
Dan

Yes, the Inserts are in Stainless Steel. Sometimes you can find them for sale if you’re lucky. You need them to be a tight fit in each Wheel where they will stay.
Alan

Alan,

Do you have a measurement for the diameter of the inserts where they mate to the inside of the wheel center? I guess that would be the OD of the insert-able part of the insert(?) where it mates to the wheel.

Dan

Sorry, no.
I sold my 1973 +2S130/4 a few Years ago and now it lives in the West Indies on a French Island Guadeloupe .
Alan

BTW, this subject was pretty much done to death here…

lotus-suspension-f42/alloy-wheel-collar-needed-t25785.html

Here’s a thrust ring engineering drawing I believe for Panasport wheels. Angle shows 52 deg.
Panasport-elan-wheels.pdf (12.5 KB)

I wrote about this on the original thread referred to and did a mating with paint of the Nader nuts with the lotus brand alloy wheels in an attempt to show that there was what appeared to be the same mating services as would be on the steel wheels. I also had ?steel wheel only? nader nuts and just because I didn?t want that to be on my alloy wheels set up, replaced them with unmarked nader ones and again saw no difference in the mating surface. At the time I said I hadn?t driven on them so I didn?t know how they would do and now I have for several years including a run up pikes Peak and have had no problems with the wheels coming loose. The only problem I had was the migration of the pegs out of the hub into the alloy wheels which I solved with longer pegs that secure the full depth of the alloy holes and now five years after the run up pikes Peak still no problems with anything coming loose nor any galling. Gordon Sauer

I’m sincere. Why the need for the washer? Didn’t see any explanation in the other longer thread either…