I just tried to start for the first time since the conversion (also put in a new reduction starter- and alternator). The starter cranked over on first two attempts to start but on the third and all subsequent times I just get a click at the solenoid.
Is there something that I could have screwed up with the conversion that ruined the solenoid? I am in the process of checking cable connections.
Do you have suggestions for how to diagnose the problem.
Which solinoid? the gear reduction starter solenoid or the firewall mounted solenoid? You should only be using one, if you use the firewall mounted one, you should hardwire the one on the starter with a jumper wire.
I would have thought that if there is one on the starter motor then that is the one to use. It may have some sort of mechanical linkages as well.
A click alone, often means that the battery has insufficient power to turn the starter, but in this case I suspect the starter has jammed. A mech problem rather than an electric one.
Did you check that the starter spins in the correct direction. You may need to work that out The engine crank turns clockwise looked at from the front, so the flywheel turns anti-clockwise, viewed from the rear, so the starter turns ???
This is what I found
engine turns freely with hand crank so I do not think the starter is jammed
The solenoid that is clicking is the one on the firewall
I ran a jumper wire across the starter when I installed it
The volt reading across the two main cables on solenoid reads 0 volts- also reads 0 volts when trying to crank starter.
volt reading from postive post to engine block reads 12.7 volts.
gotta jack up the car to check the lower cable connections - will do over the weekend. Any suggestions?
You need to bypass the orginal solenoid on the solenoid - easiest way is to bolt both the supply main cable and main cable down to the starter on the same terminal on the orginal solenoid. Then extend the small wire on the solenoid down to the solenoid connection on the new starter.
From you description I dont think you have it wired correctly as the original solenoid should not be in the working circuit.
It sounds to me as if the jumper you installed on the starter isn’t working, or the starter itself has failed. If the starter on the firewall is clicking and there’s no voltage drop across its terminals, then it’s working. Also, if you’ve removed the engine, make sure you re-installed ground straps. The engine can ground itself through various small circuits (e.g., choke cable) but they can’t handle the current from the starter.
Personally, I chose to ditch the original solenoid and run the battery cable and the white/red wire directly to the new starter. A heavy brown wire returns from the starter to the main fuse and the rest of the electrical system. I installed an insulated female spade terminal in the red/white wire so that I can hook a remote starter switch into the circuit when working on the engine.
I will bypass the firewall solenoid and see if that works. What does the big brown wire do? I know the red/white wire is for the relay switch to activate the solenoid but not sure of the brown one.
Where does the brown wire connect to the new starter or should I just leave it on the post of the firewall mounted solenoid?
With regard to voltage drop across the solenoid terminals right now it reads 0 volts with the ignition on or off.
I’m not sure what new starterty type you have there, (I’m terribly old-fashioned ) but on my starter it is not engaged onto the flywheel except when the starter is powred up. So turning the crank does not indicate whether or not the starter is jammed within itself.
And of course DO not short out the firewall solenoid until AFTER you have disconnected the short on the other solenoid otherwise you will have constant full power on the starter motor.