Thx Roger. Excellent info on bulb clearance in the small gauges.
Here is another incandescent possibility from LBC. The web site uses frames, so you have to scroll down about a quarter of the page to see the actual listing link. It is listed as a new product. From the pic the clearance looks good for both glass tube diameter and length. From Frank’s reports these could fit the bill for the large gauges. I really like only $7.00 each.
Now get more light from your dash instruments for a lower cost than our Halogen Dash Bulbs. These 8w Tungsten bulbs will help you better see your instruments at night. Keep in mind they better than the standard tungsten 2.2w bulbs, but still no where near as good as our 5w or 10w halogens since the tungsten light is not as bright and white.
Priced at only $7.00 each
8w Tungsten Dash Bulb - E-10 Screw in Base
======================================
For the colour choice, I actually tried some green incandescent bulbs when I had the dash out. Didn’t really work that well as they were pretty dim and the instrument lettering was harder to read. Not sure where I got them or their wattage. Thinking Warm White would look most ‘stock’; oh forgot, we are trying to get away from stock!
Another upgrade route similar to Frank’s original post and change to bayonet may be to change out the bulb sockets to capless bulbs, which appear to be more available in higher wattages. British Wiring in PA seems to offer some, but not sure about any fitment issues. I recall considering these during my dash re-build, but cannot recall why I didn’t follow through. One minor issue I can see is having to add ground wires to the plastic bulb holders; could probably be run to ring connectors on the gauge mounts to connect with the existing grounds. It’s easier to post a link to their new site.
Frank, well, I’m pleased to hear you have fitted fuses.
I agree that the clip from University Motors doesn’'t assert that oversize lamps were the cause of the failure, just that the lamphoder went short circuit, cause not given, it also says it is not common. The result in the unfused circuit was catastrophic, which is why I advocate fusing where there was none before.
Yes, my view is that heat damages plastics and electronics.
The plastics go brittle and break, I expect most of us have had to replace heat damaged lamp holders at home, I know I have. It’s why I am compelled by law to have special heat resistant cables for my kettle, my hot water cylinder and some of my lights, etc, even though they are fused. It’s why I had to replace my cooker door seal last month. Components like the electrolytic capacitors found in the tacho rely on a paste to isolate the internal plates and this gets dried out with heat and time, the soldered joints get stressed, the old germanium transistors don’t like heat, the carbon resistors split open. Newer components are tougher than these old style devices. Heat and time is the enemy for all these things. It’s why my television, toaster and computer have ventilation. These instruments are also old, if original, so have done well to last as long as they have.
That’s why I think you should try to give them the easiest time you can, why I say you should be wary and, for me, that would include not putting in 6 watt lamps when the manufacturer used 2.4 watts. If the successors to Smiths fit 4 watt lamps in their current range, that’s fine with me, we should be able to trust them, but I would definitely prefer a cold LED to a very hot incandescent, for a long, reliable, problem free life.
Richard
Just to set the record straight, the manufacturer used 2.2-watt lamps, not 2.4.
The successors to Smiths currently fit 4-watt bayonette style lamps in their small plastic 2" diameter gauges like my ammeter. I don’t know what they fit in the large gauges because I have not ordered a new speedo or tach from them however taking into consideration the fact that the volume of the large gauges is 4 times that of the small ones, if fitting 4 watt bulbs to the small gauges is “fine with you” and you are able to “trust them” on this, fitting a 6 watt bulb into a gauge that has a volume that is 4 times larger should be fine with you as well, especially if the larger gauge is of metal construction.
I understand that heat is the enemy of electronics. I just don’t believe that the extra heat generated by a 4 or 6 watt bulb is significant enough to cause any damage at all. If that were so, my gauges would be damaged by now. I don’t believe that Smiths tested several bulbs and learned that 2.2 watt bulbs generated the maximun amount of heat that the gauges could handle.
I looked through RD site and came across the item below. The 5/8 bulb holder may be a solution to the dim tach and speedo issue. There appears to be a good 12V selection and wattage options for this style bulb holder. The question is will it (5/8 holder) fit the speedo and tach.
I just received these 8 Watt Tungsten Instrument bulbs from the Little British car company Farmington Hills MI 48334. They appear to be great and a LOT better than the orginals. See pic
The fuel Gauge is brighter than the Oil/Water temp gauge. I’m not sure if the orginal items, the white ring appears to transmit to much light. The Speedo and Tach are a closed items for me with this solution… I like it!
Little British car company Farmington Hills MI 48334
Item Code 171-0008WDM /$7 each
Did you get all the info you required?
I have all the instruments removed from the dash and the old wiring harness laid out.
Pleased to photo anything as required.
A few updates. I tried to order some of the Smiths Gauge purpose built ES LED’s from the link above, and it is a minor PITA for our side of the pond. The web site delivers a message that ‘the package is over weight’. I contacted the vendor by email, and he recommends custom processing the order by email and providing credit card info by phone. Didn’t order, as…
Checked my two main gauges and had completely forgot I had used the new plastic replacement sockets during my re-wire, so I will be sourcing some brighter ‘Capless’ or ‘Wedge’ bulbs to suit (the push-in tubular shaped ones with no metal base on them). As I might have to remove dash for a separate repair this week, will probably be checking the small gauges shortly to see what I did there. Great there are lots of options for fixing.
Yes, I replaced all of my instrument light bulbs (except the ign warning light) with led bulbs some years ago. Much brighter - the old ones were barely visible at night - and so far its been fit and forget. Also replaced the interior lights (mine’s a coupe) but I may revisit those this year to lower the colour temperature. I used 6k bulbs and they work well in the instruments but ‘feel’ too cold as interior lights.
No problems and pleased with the results.
I changed every bulb in the car except for headlights and ignition warning.
Supplier was Classic Car LEDs in the UK. Duncan there is very helpful and seems to know his stuff.
I chose the warm white option which is similar in colour to incandescent bulbs, just brighter.
Eric in Burnley
S3SE DHC (engine out and too cold in the garage to work on it)
Same for me, all bulbs apart from ignition warning bulb replaced with LEDs. I also sourced these from Classic Car LEDs and received an excellent service. I went for the ‘warmer’ white everywhere I could and interior illumination is much brighter but a lovely yellow/amber tone. My reversing bulbs (S4) are bright white as warm white wasn’t available for these and I reasoned that as they are only on when needed, all the light possible was no bad thing. If anything my main beam indicator (blue) is too bright!
