Hi all,
First post - having spent a couple of hours reading through all the similar issues others have suffered!
I have until Friday to get a Feb 1971 Elan S4/Sprint I’m looking after re-tested at the MOT station in order to avoid a re-test fee.
The car failed on the brakes - these are now sorted. My major headache is an electrical problem, preventing me getting back for the re-test. Being an engineer, mechanical issues are a hobby of sorts (hence being nominated as custodian of the car), but I have a pathological hatred of electrical issues!!
History:
The car’s had very little use in the last 12-24 months.
The car started (with a little Easy Start) and drove to the MOT garage fine. It’s 5 miles. Full throttle leads to misfiring/poor running, but the car is probably out of tune. Carbs are Dellortos.
At the garage, the car started mis-behaving (still hot, obviously) when trying to move from the brake check rollers to the inspection ramp. It wouldn’t start cleanly and required a lot of revs to pull away.
On the way home, it slowly got worse. It would tolerate less and less throttle to run cleanly. Eventually it died. Suspecting fuel (gauge in-op), I scrounged a lift and purchased 5 litres. By the time I was back it had cooled and fired up. I only got a mile before it stopped again and this time for good. It was towed home.
Been working on it today. Fuel seems to be getting through - wet plugs, general aroma etc. Ignition side suspected - symptoms as follows:
- No spark at plug gap. Have checked/cleaned cap and rotor and shortened/re-pierced HT leads at cap end.
- Sparks seen at points when manually opened with key in “run” position.
- Slightly intermittent sparking at points when turning over with cap off.
- Car has Lucas Sport (Gold) coil. No idea if it’s ok. 10.5V or so being seen across the coil terminals. Coil seems to be switching when cranking, but distinct lack of high tension at plug gap.
- Condenser swapped for another off a Land Rover Series III. Second hand but known to be ok when removed. No change - still no spark on any plug on any lead.
There’s an anti-theft switch in the glove box. Could be this, but doesn’t explain the sparks at the points unless the switch just isolates the high tension? The wiring, in general, is a bit of a jungle.
Have until Friday (2 week MOT re-test deadline - imagine they won’t issue a certificate to a non-running car that’s towed there!!). Have a mate to help, but both restricted to evenings only now. Both electrically ignorant, so up against it a bit!! Car and I are based in Adderbury, Oxfordshire. All offers of help gratefully received! What’s on my shopping list Monday lunchtime then?!!
Best regards,
George