I bought a pair of new headlamp bezels which fit OK but the headlamp pod will not close with them on. Does anyone know which car the originals came from or a supplier who can provide ones that fit. I have the originals but one of them is a bit bashed!
I should have looked at Brian Buckland’s book first, apparently the headlamps, including bezel, are from an MGB.
I too purchased bezels that were listed as MGB from Moss motors and they would not allow the pods to close. they interfered with the body lip. Subsequently bought some from Dave Bean here in the US. They were about 3/16 inch shorter as I recall and worked fine. Don’t know what the fitment was for, maybe just aftermarket tolerances. I’m sure either would work on MGB but not on Lotus.
The bezel is modified to have a spring tab to locate it. Some have a screw fitting which is unsuitable as we cannot access the screw in our pods.
Mine came from Sue Miller and they are fine.
Eric in Burnley
1967 S3SE DHC
Years ago I bought the MGB style with clip; one fit the pod, the other didn’t. They are rather square-shouldered, and the outer portion of the bezel needed just a tiny bit more clearance. I ended up using TR6 bezels, which are more tapered.
I installed some brass based rims from Moss.
Had to look at a few to get a decent finish.
My problem is that I don’t think I’ll ever get them off without spoiling the paint.
The clip is very tight and the rims very close to pod.
Am I alone in this?
Anyone got tips to aid removal?
Slightly academic question as I aligned headlights before installation (I suppose you have to!) but could easily have fitted first then found I couldn’t get them off to adjust.
I have found that a strong, springy tool like the one Lotus show in the manual works fine. I made mine from an old table knife with a thin blade.
You slip it between the bezel and the light, not as some have tried around the outside of the bezel.
I’m in the same boat with what I take to be the original bezels (they’ve not been replaced in my near 40yr ownership). They’re very securely on there and the paint will come off with them if I ever have to remove them. I don’t have the removal tool but from the look of it I’d be amazed if that did the job without damaging the paint.
Thanks Roger - that sounds like a better plan than the workshop instructions working on the outside.
I will have a play around and report back in due course - which may be some time
After my rebuild, and they proved difficult, I never bothered putting them on.
After all, who is going to notice ?
So far, in the last 30 years, no-one has…
Good point certainly on UK cars they are only up in the dark and on the move - wish I’d thought about that!
Best Sheffield steel I see!
I forgot that I had this problem when I rebuilt my headlamps some years ago (bezel fouling the bodywork when the headlight pods lowered).
In my case I was able to lower the entire headlamp bowl/gasket down closer to the bottom of the pod face. It wasn’t much, but enough so that the bezel cleared the bodywork. I was surprised at the time that dropping the bowl such a small amount made a noticeable difference to the clearance against the bodywork.
I’m not looking forward to getting the bezels off again but some strong plastic under the removal tool should protect the paintwork, right?
Nick
In theory one should be able to put something in between but stopping it moving may not be easy and there’s not much space.
I’m minded to try between bezel and light first.
Or just hope that bulb never blows
I went for the ones that need a screw to secure them and the matching headlamp housing, Landrover I believe! Drill a discrete hole in the pod to access the screw, you would never notice it unless you looked closely with the headlamps up. It’s almost invisible as the bezel is so close to the pod as you are all finding when trying to slide some sort of removal tool in to pull them off.
My local tyre fitter gave me a large used inner tube when I was looking for some thick rubber. I’ve cut some to fit below the bezel.
Good idea - I’ve loads of old inner tubes.