I’m not sure how others compress their front springs but I have made a couple of steel plate brackets.
The lower one bolts through the bottom damper eye & protects the roll bar stud. This assembly permits the damper to swing & rests on the floor. The second bracked I rawlplug to a wall at a suitable height. This acts as a fulcrum for two longish steel tubes. The tubes run along the side of the spring damper unit & are attached to the upper part of the spring by hooks made from strip steel, one end bent to suit the spring diameter the other to suit the tubing.
By pushing down on the ends of the tubes simultaneously I can control the compression of the spring very well.
I’ve tried other ways to compress those springs & have always ended up frightening myself.
They need to be compressed a long way; probably beyond the scope of commercial compressors.
During compression the springs buckle in any direction they choose to; that’s the frightening bit.
Nico
When I re assembled my front shocks I compressed the spring by fitting the shock complete with un compressed spring between the chuck and tail stock on my lathe. I then simply wound out the tailstock until i could fit the collets in at the top of the shock. Carefull adjustment of the three jaw chuck allowed me to fit the collets between the jaws.
On the shocks I used I could unscrew the stud that forms the anti roll bar mounting.
I live in Solihull and if you would care to pop over we could possibly re assemble the shocks on a couple of hours.
For what it is worth here is a picture of the front spring compressor I made up. Top end plate hole sized to clear the top spring retainer and counterbored to locate the end of the spring, bottom plate bored to allow the S/A to drop through and locate on its lower spring register. The two plates are are drawn together with nuts on the 10mm studding located at the corners of the plates compressing the spring until the top retainer can be dropped over its register. Undo the nuts to allow the spring to expand into position.
Tedious work with all the screwing (no sniggers now) but the spring is securely held all the times within what amounts to a strong cage.
That looks a lot less scary than my effort with only 2 lengths of studding.
You’ve got the spring caged.
Just a thought. If you welded the nuts at one end to the plate & at the other end to the studs you could run them down quite quickly with an electric drill?
Tidy piece of kit though.
The tailstock has about 6 - 7 inches travel. I could only use for the front springs. The bed isn’t long enough for the rear struts. I aslo suspect that it only worked on my front shochs as they have an adjustable seat whichI moved to the lowest position for assembly.
I used the same method when replacing springs on my mx-5 (I don’t know if I should mentio that vehicle here.
6" to 7" of tailstock movement is most enviable.
Now wait for the comments
Nevertheless I’m happy to cope with my “Toy” lathe even though it would never do that job.
I think the rear strut springs are far easier to assemble than the fronts; bundles of energy just waiting to attack the unwary, especially the ?pyder springs.
MX-5 a great little car IMHO. I never understood why it got it’s hairdresser image. A super sports car at a very reasonable price & a real alternative to an Elan, I think.