Fitting Sue Miller/Kelvedon CV joints

[Craven]

@Andy8421

A quick question, my torque rods from the diff are attached to the chassis (frame) with studs welded to the chassis (frame) and conical nuts that engage with a conical depression on the end of the torque rod. There is another nut that acts as a locknut on top of this. I assumed this was to stop the torque rods fretting against the chassis (frame) as the diff moved back and forward.

Your setup seems to have a bolt passing through the torque rod end. Was this a modification, or is this an original fitting?

Thanks,

Andy.

May be of interest,
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=52225&p=380720#p380720

[alleggerita]

Leslie wrote this:
"There MUST be a steel washer underneath the nylock nuts Jack, on the ali housing end. I do not see them on your set up.

Have a great Christmas"

OK, good point. I will add the washers, I think I see what they serve at. Have a great Christmas.

Alan wrote this:
“Also you may find that the very thick washer that I see you have fitted under the bolt head puts the head of the bolt too close to the wheel rim.”

I will mount 4 spoke 13" x 6" alloy Revolutions including hub extenders. We checked and found the problem you describe is less likely to occur. It will be changed to normal size washers nevertheless (need to find normal size imperial washers, I am from the metric world)

Andy wrote this:
“Your setup seems to have a bolt passing through the torque rod end. Was this a modification, or is this an original fitting?”

I have a Spyder stressed skin chassis, which has holes to pass the bolts. The torque rods are brand new, I ordered them from Sue last summer. I did not add the tapered washers because I don’t have them.

Everybody have a great Christmas too.

[alan.barker]

If it’s ok can i suggest for the Torque Rod Screws you fit them from the Chassis side, Then put Spot Welds on the Heads to fix them like Studs in Chassis. This is how Lotus did it which imho is the best way. Take some standard Nuts and machine a Chamfer in a Lathe. Fit these to lock the Torque Rods in position and follow up with Half Nuts.
If you just fit Screws and Nuts through the Hole in the Chassis they will elongate the Holes.
Sorry if it sounds like i’m telling you how to “suck Eggs”.
Have a nice Christmas
Alan

[JonB]

@512BB

There MUST be a steel washer underneath the nylock nuts Jack, on the ali housing end. I do not see them on your set up.

Have a great Christmas.

Leslie

Well reminded Les, I’ll go stick ‘em on.

[alleggerita]

Alan we see the advantages of your suggestion so that is what we are going to work on after the Christmas formalities.

[bjw]

If welding the bolts to the chassis it’s important to get the right length - just long enough to accomodate the tapered nut and the locknut. If they’re only a little too long it will be impossible to remove or replace the wishbone bolts…

On my (Lotus supplied) chassis the studs were far too long to allow the head of the wishbone bolt to pass. (Brian Buckland suggests grinding a bit off the heads of the wishbone bolts to get around this issue.)

My approach was to cut the welded bolts out and weld in tapped plates to the chassis to accept replacements - these can then be wound back to provide clearance for the wishbone bolts:-

This also allows easy replacement should they ever get damaged.

Cheers

[smo17003]

@alleggerita

Leslie wrote this:
"There MUST be a steel washer underneath the nylock nuts Jack, on the ali housing end. I do not see them on your set up.

Have a great Christmas"

OK, good point. I will add the washers, I think I see what they serve at. Have a great Christmas.

Alan wrote this:
“Also you may find that the very thick washer that I see you have fitted under the bolt head puts the head of the bolt too close to the wheel rim.”

I will mount 4 spoke 13" x 6" alloy Revolutions including hub extenders. We checked and found the problem you describe is less likely to occur. It will be changed to normal size washers nevertheless (need to find normal size imperial washers, I am from the metric world)

Andy wrote this:
“Your setup seems to have a bolt passing through the torque rod end. Was this a modification, or is this an original fitting?”

I have a Spyder stressed skin chassis, which has holes to pass the bolts. The torque rods are brand new, I ordered them from Sue last summer. I did not add the tapered washers because I don’t have them.

Everybody have a great Christmas too.

My Spyder chassis came with 2 x 5/16"unf/2" HT bolts with special cone bushes and nyloc nuts specifically for the torque rods to chassis attachment. They are part of the nuts and bolts kit that should come with the chassis. If you have the Spyder fitting instructions they are mentioned there (they call them “tie rods”).