First time rebuilder - struggling with steering rack

Hi,
I’m rebuilding my 71 Sprint DHC - RHD. progressing well, but when I come to loose fitting the rack, I have an issue: (rack is a new unit as are track rod ends)

Fitting the rack and winding both track rod ends on as far as possible, the wheels are very toe-out and I cannot get them straight, let alone toe-in.


If I put the left wheel straight ahead, the right wheel points off at a big angle


If I put the right wheel straight, the left side of the track rod is off by quite a distance

I must have done something stupid, but without the track rod ends winding on further or the steering rack being narrower (neither of which can happen), I’m not sure what is wrong.
Please can you advise?
Thanks
Jem

Some of the current track rods advertised for Elans and Plus 2’s are too long I’ve found.

Your new steering rack may be a standard Triumph unit which has not been modified to suit the Elan. The Elan version has track rods approx 3/4" shorter than the Triumph ones and should also have internal lock limiting spacers fitted.

Before you start sawing off the ends, check with whoever supplied it because its basically the wrong rack for your car. Possibly its for a Plus 2.

As oldelan said, the correct rack will have travel limiting spacers (hidden inside the rubber gaiters). Some replacement racks have the rack bar ball joints assembled by a swaging process so its not possible to retro fit them.

Ian

You may want to chase the ball joint threads with a tap. Just make sure it is the type with a smaller shank than threaded portion. John

Just checked a spare rack I have and it measures 100 cm overall excluding the track rod ends, if your new one is longer it’s not correct for the Elan.


Also if you have the correct lock limiting spacers fitted in the rack you should have approx 2 and 3/8 turns of the pinion lock-to-lock.

I’ve had this a number of times in last few years, the track rod ends are to long… in both cases I purchased the track rods from Lotus part suppliers, and had them for a while before trying to use them…!

I’ve also had a set with metric threads on the tapered ball, and a larger diameter taper, ironically these had the correct length as an old sample track rod end I’ve kept!!

The rack has approx 2 and 1/4 turns lock to lock - so that seems the same.
the length seems broadly right as well.

to get the wheels straight with the rack in approximate centre, the track rods would need to wind on as shown (RHD car). Neither will get close to going on that far.



confused.

do you remember how long they should be?

Hi Jem,

A bit off topic but Is it possible for you to measure the thickness of the upright mounting ear below? I’m creating a CAD model of the front suspension and this is one of the dimensions that is questionable.

Thanks,

Jem,
Not sure what measurement you show in your photo. Did you measure the overall length of the complete rack ? As I said it should be 1000 mm (1 metre) excluding the track rod ends … yours looks too long.
My track rod ends are 70 mm long measured from centre of ball joint to the end … how does that compare with yours?

my rack is 1m long (ex the track rod ends)track rod ends are 70mm from centre to the end.
How far do you track rod ends wind on?

The locknuts are very near the end of the thread on the track rods so looking at the spare rack that gives around 35mm of thread engaged in the track rod end.

I’ll measure it today and post details tonight.

Cheers

Vaughan

thanks

I thought hit me - It’s not something stupid like the suspension is in full droop as it’s just been built and there’s no weight from engine/body/wheels and I haven’t set any geometry because of no weight?

With the car on it’s wheels and weight on the suspension, the steering arms would raise from their current position and the distance between them would widen, wouldn’t it? don’t know if that would be enough, but if the rack and track rod ends are OK, there must be another reason…

if the bump steer is adequately minimized there should not be any significant change in toe in/out when the suspension in compression or droop. Fwiw I had measured the distance tie rod to tie rod on my s4se (almost in straight line…) and it was 104.25cm

Bucklands book has 42.2" (107.2cm) tie rod center to center. This was close to my measured dimension.

Hi Jem,
I see this subject is a few years old but did you get to the bottom of this issue.
I have taken on a rebuild of a 69 fhc and have the very same problem as describe.

Any wise words?

Not an answer to the question, but when you do the job don’t forget the rack needs the right thickness shims when fitting.