Engine hitting bonnet S4

Elan Discussions
1

Would some-one be able to measure the height from the chassis cross tube (top) to the underside of the crankshaft pulley.

My measurement is 45mm approximately.

Have new engine mounts, fitted correctly.

Body mounts all bolt up correctly, so spacers not required to lift body.

Have the correct gearbox mounts spacers, adding more height at the gearbox mount does not alter the engine hitting by any great amount.

Other thoughts or opinions greatly appreciated.

I assume there are only one type of mounts, as they appear to sit the engine rather high in the chassis.

2

Most cars had spacers fitted to level the shell and avoid stressing it when snugging bolts through the chassis flange.
Is it a later block?
A simple option is to oval engine mount holes to lower the engine, an Elan I owned with 1600 block fitted had that mod by PO.
Vaughan

3

Are you certain the correct mountings are fitted, as there are variations, see here for a good breakdown of what should be fitted, this is from the Lotus Marques website, from their knowledge base under the title “Lotus Elan +2 engine mount installation and orientation”.

Here is the link

lotusmarques.com/info/technical … 26E6011%29.

Tony

4

Hi Vaughan,
Body sits flat on the chassis.
Big valve motor with original 701 block.
Would have to oval out about 5mm, which would possibly mean contact of the airbox to footwell.

Cheers
Jeff

5

Hi Tony, mounts purchased from Steve, and fitted in accordance with those notes.

Cheers
Jeff

6

For me you have 2 choices.

  1. Remove all Setscrews along Chassis Backbone , at Front Turrets, at the Langes on Cross Member.
    Raise Body and fit Spacers.
  2. Fit normal Cam Cover not Big Valve, not sooo square at front and might clear inside Bonnet.
    Alan
7

Hi,
I’d try another carb side mount, just in case the one you have has the “glued in” part set too low in the mount. This would effectively raise the engine.

Cheers
Mark

8

Jeff, all of the elan’s I’ve owned have had spacers, easily 3-5 mm, the options are lift body drop engine to clear bonnet. The rhd S4’s I owned had about 5-10mm clearance on drivers side and more on exhaust under the bonnet.
What do you have?
Has the bonnet had stiffening added? Correct me if I’m wrong the cars Rex Hodder’s car, it had a big accident, has the repair been done properly?
You should have more than 5mm clearance under airbox to play with. If you have an old set of mounts oval the holes.
If you have to space the body, the horizontal holes into front and rear uprights of chassis will need to be welded up. Which is a big job.

9

If lifting Body which means the Turret holes at Front and maybe be back need moving. The thing you can do is cut around the Bobbins . Remove Bobbin with1 or 2 cms of grp apound it.
If you know how much the Shims will be you cut around Bobbins off center. Remove turn 180° then glass back in.
Imho it’s easier than welding up holes in Chassis. Very difficult to redrill welded holes as the metal becomes very hard. You will break drills and Taps.
Alan

10

Hi Vaughan,

Yes, I have Rex’s car.

My initial thoughts are the engine is sitting high, comparing it to photographs I took of #202.

All mounts are new from Steve Taylor. Chassis mount holes appear to be factory.

Body has been repaired very badly by a supposed Lotus expert in Sydney, so I was told. He should be shot !

Have been supplied a Stromberg bonnet, no stiffeners in it. Originally car has flat bonnet, will make so.

I am in the process of repairing the repairs. The bobbins in the rear chassis legs line up with the body sitting flush with the chassis, the front bobbins are not even close at this stage. Will reposition if required.

Cheers
Jeff

11

I did this when my S4 received a new front. I used a 75mm hole saw to cut out the bobbin. That then gave me plenty of surrounding GRP to grind back ready for matting back in place. As Alan says, much less stressful than welding and redrilling, which is a get it right first time, or else.