Engine cutting out

Bugger. I know that this will bring up A LOT of possible solutions, but here goes anyway: My +2S/130 is playing up a bit, driving along this morning, three times the engine cut out on me, but leaving it in gear it would then pick up again and carry on. Just once as I was in 2nd gear pulling into a small road did I have to restart, but then it started right away.

There doesn’t seem to be any hesitation, it just dies. Could it have something to do with the +3-4 C degrees this morning ? As I’ve had it since this summer.

What’s up?

big valve +2S/130 with twin40s and lumenition.

I mean: As I’ve had it since this summer and this has only happened a couple of times now when it’s colder…

Petrol / Weber problem due to the cold perhaps?

Conditions sound suitable for carburettor icing which was a problem on the Stromberg cars. It also apparently was problem on the later cars with Delorto carbs according to the Wilkins book.

Rohan

Thor,

Does it cut out under certain conditions - if so which ones - or is it random?

If it’s random it sounds like an electrical problem to me - check all of the connections in the ignition circuit including the spade terminals on the ignition switch as these can work loose (they did on mine…) plus those on the fuel pump. It may be fuel related, but I would have thought that you’d see some hesitation rather than it cutting out completely.

After I had rebuilt my s130 I had a similar problem with cutting out, yes it was electrical, and changing the coil cured it. Mind you that was the last thing I tried ! Plugs, leads, points, condensor, dix cap, rotor, solenoid, & coil last. It would start fine, run and then just die, spose the windings were shot (whatever they are). Foxed me for ages…jc

check your anti-theft switch fitted in the glovebox as well.
I had the same problem once and the switch was the problem

Robin :smiling_imp:

The what?? Anti theft switch, really, where?

Just to join in the last point… Anti theft switch! I wondered what that was. How does it work? Does it just break the low tension circuit to prevent starting or what?

Thanks

Simon

I believe it swaps the ignition coil for the horn,so when some bugger tries to start it,it sounds off!
John

I believe it swaps the ignition coil for the horn,so when some bugger tries to start it,it sounds off

Really? I thought it was there just to make the horn operation intermittent and the ignition to fail at random! :laughing:

WHERE IS IT ???

OK - Don’t shout!

Look in your glovebox. Should be a basic up/down slider switch on the right hand side. It is best to disconnect the thing as it never worked particularly well.

ah, really? thanks. So the recommended is to just disconnect the wires and isolate them then? (if mine isn’ t aleady…)

No,the recommendation is to strip out the switch and reconnect the wires permanently(I.E. bypass the switch)
John

can not agree more, just bypass the switch and fit a master battery switch if you want to.

cheers

robin