This is an excellent tip from Ian Phillips, a fellow CLOG.
Appologies for the poor quality of picture !!!
After undoing the nyloc nut a few turns leave the socket in place (as long as it stands proud of the hub threads) and then tighten the spinner against it.
Give the spinner a few good whacks and then hit the back of the hub to loosen the taper then back onto the spinner again.
I removed both hubs within 5 minutes with this method.
A word of caution … I used this method and it worked on one side OK but the other side was more stubborn and I distorted the spinner. The socket is a smaller diameter than the inside of the spinner and the load generated was sufficient to push up the concave centre. I also made a simple jig to hold the strut stable so I could get a good clean whack on the spinner. (see pics) Obviously the strut needs to be off the car first.
As mentioned, some hubs can be real buggers to get off for many reasons & they need to be tackled appropriatly.
The above mentioned method is a good bit of lateral thinking but if it doesn’t work there’s no point in clobbering the living daylights out of the Spinner; common sense should tell us that a more effective method will be necessary.
Using the very course pitched hub thread is an ineffective way of putting a tensile load into the taper joint so if the hub refuses to release after a couple of hefty clouts it’s time to think of using a more appropriate puller with a much finer thread & the possible application of heat to the hub.
The thought of somebody clouting the Spinner until it disstorts is, errm, worrying
an interesting read.
Not quite what I’d call a parallel World
You can’t park an Aeroplane at the side of the road if the Prop falls off
I’m not sure if I read that all correctly but “the light lubrication of the surfaces” is IMHO questionable.
Are they refering to the tapers or just the thrust surfaces?
I’ve just noticed this thread - and not to use the spinner to extract the hub has never crossed my mind.
You need, of course, to heat the hub before trying to extract it. To be able to extract a hub with the spinner without heat should be very worrying.
On reassembly it is important to remove all the oil used in the lapping process to ensure dry contact surfaces. And don’t forget to heat the hub for about 5 minutes with blow lamp to ensure a tight fit on the spindle.
Hi Guys,
I stuck them in the oven for a few mins.Fitted them quite hot, I recon around 100c.What I set the oven at! Don’t know if I will ever get the things off again though. Good fitting (lapped) tapers can be a bugger to shift.