Dash swap tips please.

Hello folks.

I’ve just got a new dash for my sprint and was wondering if anyone has any tips before I start to swap it.

(the dash was from Ebay, sold by jodycat1, and is very nice, and comes with decals etc. for just ?100)

To remove the dash do you have to remove the center tunnel cover? It’s just that mine has a rollcage bar going through it and would be a PITA to remove. There seems to be an L shaped bit of plate the 2 bottom bolts are connected to, can this be removed instead?

Does the bonnet release have to be completely removed then threaded through again?

Does the oil pressure gauge need to be removed WITH the capillary tube?

Any general tips will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Andy.

Andy,
… Don’t expect the carbs to go through the choke cable hole ! :laughing:
For the rest , Iam afraid , it’s minimum a long working day and it’s no other solution for bonnet release …
I still have to do it on “OEW”…
Christian.

flickr.com/photos/16638375@N … 202952079/
About half way down.

Do take lots of pictures and drawings wiring + switch diagrams in workshop books are wrong.
The frame is a great help, give switches a wash out with switch cleaner and check with a meter .

The side light mod fitting into the rear int light is for a oil pressure W/L and alarm led.
Best of luck about 2 days work for me but I did have sort out the heater/bloked drain.
Neil

Andy

Take LOTS of photos of the back of the dash before you start removing cables. Label each wire as you remove it. Draw diagrams of the connections to each switch etc and cross reference to the label. I took the opportunity to re terminate every connection and (purists look away now) I used crimp on male and female spades throughout.

I also replaced the voltage stabiliser with a solid state version and replaced all instrument lamps with LED versions (except the ignition warning light).

The last items are personal preference.

I found that all holes in the new dash were slightly to small (the varnish had reduced the size so I had to ease them with a small sanding drum on a dremel. I also replaced all the rubber seals round the instruments.

Above all take it slowly, methodically and make plenty of notes.

Good luck

Andy Hodgkinson

While it’s out you have access to the heater,flush out the matrix? re-fit rubber seals on the heater flaps?

John :wink:

Andy,

My advice is that you go down to your local hardware store and pick up a pack of numeric labels from the electric department. These packs come with two small matching labels for each number and as you pull connections off, you simply place matching label numbers on the two parts. This eliminates any question as to what plugs into what upon re-assembly. Best of luck.

Hi

Purely by coincidence I’ve just removed/replaced the dash on my sprint to access a non-working heater fan.

I opted for a different approach- I fitted multi- plug connectors to the loom so that I can now unplug the whole facia panel and only need to unscrew the oil guage feed and speedo cable. At the same time I extended the wiring by about 12 inches or so to enable the panel to be pulled further out for access.

Took quite a while to do- tedious but not too difficult. Biggest headache was working out the best way to route some of the cables for neatness.

Total price was around ?40 for the plugs and the extra cable. The plugs stow in the space above the heater. Lots of soldering!

John

Andy,

To answer your question regarding the oil pressure gauge,
the gauge, capilliary and bulb have to be removed as one, if you don’t then it’s broke!

Good Luck
Barney