Boot is split on my cv drive shaft setup.
I’m can’t remember where I bought them years ago, but the boot is split at strut side. Anyone any idea what they are orginally off? As I need to find replacements
Also I’ve never done this on a cv shaft boot replacement before is it a difficult job?
Thanks
James
Hello James,
I’m almost certain the boots are from a VW Type 3 all the way through VW Rabbit and later transporters.
jbugs.com/product/86-1084-1.html
Or replace all 4 since they are all the same age and its a good time to relube them.
Why did it happen?
I have a difficult time with the internals, holding things together, while installing boots.
As stated probably VW. See jbugs.com/VW-Tech-Article-C … Specs.html
To confirm which. I suggest using some aviation gasket sealer between cv and adapter plate and small bit of silicon under the corner of the bit metal cap to avoid any grease weeping out.
You’ll also need a 6 or 8 mm triple square bit for the bolts.
Change it back to Rotoflexes…less hassle! 
Alan.
If which it looks like your CVs Driveshafts have Alloy Adapter Plates you need Loctite on Threads + use Loctite Activator.
Alan
Mine are Ford with 100mm OD on the CV housing and 6 bolts if that helps
Hi
They are on the net. ebay.
John
Less trouble with the boots maybe, but you will need to invest in a good club hammer to straighten out the damage when they let go at 75MPH on the M25…
Ouch
It can happen with mm CVs if NO Loctite and NO Loctite Activator used on Cap Head Screws in Alloy Adaptors.
Alan
Alan,
Thanks for this.
I am trying to figure out from the pictures what broke first. Was it one of the 3 large bolts that go through the adaptor plate, disc and 3 eared flange attached to the hub?
If so, I thought they had nylocks on them?
Any information would be very helpful.
Thanks,
When my last Rotoflex failed catastrophically doing a racing start from traffic lights, it also broke off the brake caliper completely, leaving me in the middle of a major junction with an immobile Lotus and a very red face 
That’s when I changed to CVs.
Andy,
It was the Caphead Screws that unscrewed because NOT Loctited. When Screws go into the Alloy Adaptors they need to be Loctited also with Loctite Activator.
Where the 3 Studs go into Ears at Diff or Hub they needed to be drilled out. They had been forced into their holes. In short a bodged assembly.
Alan
CV joints are from ford Sierra with boots to match
I use the Schnorr washers under the Allen head bolts. They’re dished and serrated. I understand
this is what the Porsche guys use. I also safety wire the allen head bolts together. No loctite.
Alan & Andy
Where did you get the shafts from? Mine are same and I’m trying to get the CV boots with the metal ring attached? I cannot remember where I got mine.
The inside nuts on my shafts had backed out a few threads so good call on the Loctite.
Thanks
James
James,
Please use the Loctite also “Loctite Activator” .
Alan
Looking at this again, I think I agree. The VW CV’s normally have a reduced diameter section that these don’t have. I think that is on the none boot fitting side of the joint. If the bolt are not triple squares but hex or torx that would also point to not being VW joints.
For replacing them you probably looking for a ford place that supplies parts for Merkur X4TI in the US (aka a Ford Seirra). Or you can compare the CV measurements and see if one of the VW boots might fit as they are easily available in the US.
Hi all,
I don`t know if this is helpful, but I bought my CV shafts from Kelvedon and the packaging used boxes for Shaftec U/joints. Unfortunately there is no type or model number visible. I have also bought replacement boots from them.
Eric in Burnley
1967 S3SE DHC