Yes I have done it and raced the car for years with just under 300 bhp and well over 200 ft lbs - engine was bored to 2.4 litre. Fuel injected and obviously all steel.
Chassis was Spyder space frame widened to take engine which I moved back about 6" and a Rocket box with straight cut Quaiffe gears. Roll cage designed in to prevent teist, and whilst doing chassis fitted wishbone rear suspension from a Ralt, used Quaiffe diff they make for Escort 4 wheel drive at the front of the car - it is like an enlarged Elan diff unit but with Atlas cwp.
March front suspension and vented AP brakes. Mallock wing to keep it on ground and large front end splitter. Ride height and rake critical as was undertray to make it glue itself to ground [ usually - someome reading this will know I crashed at most corners at Oulton! ]. Could not find room for turbo and intercoler, but considerd race Ford V6 as next step as this would fit
Hope this helps
Richard
Hi guys
Update on progress.
Cossie 71/2" diff now sitting in chassis. Rear crossmember has had to be removed in order to fit it. tTis will be replaced with removable section so diff can be taken out via the boot area!
I have had to modify my plans due to the fact that the Elan knock-on hubs are too weak to take the thicker Cossie driveshafts. I am now going to use Cossie hubs and hub carriers, discs, calipers and driveshafts. Intermediate shafts will have to be shortened and re-splined. Escort dampers with coilovers will allow for adjustable ride height and damping. Retaining lower wishbone, using Tony Thompson adjustable units so that fine tuning can be undertaken.
Now that I have had to do away with the Wolfrace slot mags I am looking for a 15, 16 or 17" replacement. The upside of this additional expense is the improved handling the lower profile tyres will give the car. I am looking to use 235 on the rear and 205 or 215 on the front with a maximum overall diameter of 24". Any suggestions? As the car will not see a great deal of road use, I am looking for grip and handling rather than longevity 
I haven’t set up a web site yet, so email me if you would like to see pics of the diff in the chassis ([email protected])
Hi Paros
What rake and ride height did you settle on?
For your new wheels you just have to go with minilites. Give them a call as they can machine up anything you want. B)
Hi Steve
If you mean the style that was fitted to Minis all those years ago (and quit a few Lotus 7 lookalikes), then I 'd rather walk
Do they offer other styles? I would like to get something similar to the original Wolfrace slot mags. Machine7 do slot mags by Anson, but only for Beetles.
The style is classic - as fitted to mini, Lotus 7, Ford Escort etc…
Have a look at www.minilite.co.uk
If you do not like that style TTR may be able to do something with 26R wheels they supply as they make these themselves.
Fully agree with Steveww. Minilites are classic wheels. In the 60s & 70s, if you were anything in motorsport you would have minilite wheels. Ford, BMC (they became leyland) Rootes (imp & hunter) all used minilites. They were also used by some F2 & F3 teams. They were all magnesium alloy & very strong.
If you are using bolt on hubs supalite may also be of help.
Hamish.
Competition Fabrications (Nick Pavarrani). Really top class work! Did my exhaust system & some cooling piping for my project.
Address: Bunns Bank, Attleborough NR17 10D Tel. 01953 454573.
I’ve got that Lotus Elan video & Pat Thomas does have a Mod Sports Elan with a Cossie motor & Formula 2 suspension. There is a wheel manufacturer in north Birmingham (can’t think of the name) they could provide you with anything you need fron their split rim range!
What Elan video is that ?
I have just stumbled across Superlite. They seem to do the sizes I want at not TOO drastic a price. Although their designs are Minilite-esque(?) they look (to me, at least) better. I think I could live with them
It has also been suggested that I get myself up to Birmingham for the Autosport Racing Car Show in January. Should be able to find exactly what I want there, or find someone to make it for me! So I will wait until then before making a final decision.
Settling on Hayward and Scott as suggested by Steveww for the exhaust. Near to home and helpful. Thanks for the suggestions guys.
Chassis update. Diff in place, mounted rigidly. Right hand side almost complete. Not a lot of Lotus left, just wishbones! Using gas coilovers. Due to the excessive torgue planned top wishbone has been added so that damper doesn’t have to bear the brunt and risk locking up. Cossie driveshafts will be shortened and re-splined rather than “cut-n-shut”.
Leaning towards TOYO 245/35/16 for the rear. These give me approx the same diameter as existing 225/60/13. Not available in this country for a few months, but I am in no hurry, yet.
That’s all for now
Steve
| [b]QUOTE[/b] (steveww @ Nov 19 2004, 09:39 AM) |
| What Elan video is that ?
[/quote] |
Progress Report
Chassis back from Hatherway’s. Now sporting double wishbones (at the right angles), gas filled adjustable coilovers, Cossie 7.5" diff, driveshafts (shortened), hub, discs and calipers. All that remains of the original are the bottom wishbones, and they are being replaced with a set from Tony Thompson that have 3mm toe in built in.
Chassis has also been strengthened/stiffened, using all of the suggestions found on this site.
The T5 TVR Tuscan gearbox fits!!! Just. I need to fabricate a mount but that shouldn’t be a problem.
The Cossie block mounts to the existing chassis points using a pair of Anglia mounts (as opposed to one Anglia and one Elan). Stiffer mounts will be used on the final build. I have had to, however, remove that funny bar that runs under the sump as the Cossie one has the bowl at the rear. I will try to put one back as near as possible to its origianl postion, but does anyone know how important this bar is, bearing in mind all of the strengthening that has been done.
As the front of the engine JUST clears the front crossmember, I am going to have to convert to flywheel ignition timing as the slightest movement will rip off the existing pully sensor!
Body is off original chassis (which is on eBay) waiting to be cut to pieces in order to fit on to new chassis. With the block in position it is now obvious that the bonnet will need to be modified in order to clear the camcover and pulleys. Lowering engine would result in mods to the front crossmember and bring the gearbox very close to the bottom of the chassis box section. It would also result in the sump being more vunerable. I looked at the possibility of a dry sump system, but at ?800 odd from Burton, this is not an option at present (unless anyone has one lying around looking for a good home!).
6 pot KAD alloy calipers, gas filled coilovers (same as rear but with different spring rates), alloy hubs, vented discs and adjustable top wishbones are planned for the front along with a quick rack if I can find one.
RecoProps are to make the prop for me (Cossie one end, TVR the other).
Off to Racing Car Show at the NEC in January to look for wheels (using Ford hubs gives me a lot of choice), seats and gauges.
That’s about it for now, further update after Xmas
Have a good one everyone
Steve
Hi there
nice to hear of the progress your making on this project. Hope you don’t mind me asking why you don’t seem to want to do mods on the front cross member. Spyder cut a half moon section out of their tubular version to provide clearance for the crank vibration damper. I did it to mine also. If your engine is going to be so close to that cross member have you thought about how you will you change the fan belt when necessary. I reworked the Zetec oil pan for my Elan so that the sump is up front. You will find that if your sump fouls the small cross member you will then most probably have a similar problem with the roll bar which you can’t leave off. I also had to lengthen the drop links on mine to get past the oil pan.
Have a good Christmas.
John
Quaiff (sp?) or Jack Knight should be able to supply a quick rack. Also worth having a word with Classicar Automotive as they recondition these units so will have a good understanding of what goes in to them.
The chassis cross member under the sump is critical to prevent distorion of the 2 front arms of the chassis under cornering loads. Mine is removable and it is impossible to refit due to chassis distortion if I jack the car up with it removed at one corner.
If you move it a little back or forward for clearance reasons not a great issue but be careful you end up with enough room for the roll bar that runs next to it to move forward and back as the suspension works up and down.
Rohan
Hi,
I’ve just remembered the name of a good local source for wheels for your project.
“Image wheels” are based between Wolverhampton & Birmingham. They always have a stand at the Autosport International show NCC.
They have a big range of split rim wheels. Cast centres with polished, spun, two piece rims. These will allow you to play tunes on rim width, diameter & offset. I think the Minilite style centres that they make look great. I had a set of 6.5" x 15" on my Europa.
Regards.
John
Hi guys
Just in case you thought I had given up on this project…
Not a lot has happened since last post. Life etc getting in the way.
Wheels will be coming from Superlite (17 x 7 & 17 x 9). Tyres will be 215/35 or 40 front and 245/35 rear. Gauges from Nordskog (DP9255 if interested).
Taken delivery of front alloy hubs from Pace Products. Ordered alloy 4 pot calipers and 260mm discs from Hi-Spec. Will also be ordering their alloy replacement Cossie rear calipers in the next day or so.
Prop soon off to Recoprop to be adapted to fit to TVR gearbox.
Started looking for quality sprayers in the Chelmsford area. Found two in Maldon. both Jaguar rebuilders.
Any thoughts on ally radiators that would fit?
Hopefully I will have more substantial news in the next couple of weeks
Steve
TTR do an alloy rad for the elan. I also have seen ads for an other company that will make anything up.
Hey, we talking LOTUS ELAN here?
Protypes are organised by the FIA!
Stick-in-the mud!
Roy
'65S2
Steveww - Yes he does, but at ?325 x VAT!!! I’m looking for something at a realistic price
elj221c - Yes a 1967 S3 Elan. Don’t understand the rest of your posting, however, please expand on your thoughts.
Steve