Hi all, after starting on the first turn of the key and running the +2 up to temperature I was pleased that all gauges were registering correctly with no other problems
However the next day turned the key and nothing at all, not even a click from the solenoid, the battery is on a new
trickle charger and showing 13,8 V
I have now fitted a new solenoid and column ignition switch, and all the switch terminals are . showing the same amount of power , There is a good earth on the solenoid and to the cam cover , the ignition light is correct.
Overnight in the garage I just cannot understand what has happened, there is no attempt at the engine to turn over, it must be something simple ----- but what?
Once again can anybody please help thanks very much John
There is not much to check. I would do the following:
Check there is 12-13V at the input bolt terminal of the starter solenoid. if not, check the cable from the battery positive and re-check the battery earth.
If there is, see if the starter is jammed. If you have a Lucas starter, check that you can turn the starter motor shaft using a spanner on the exposed square lug at the back of the motor.
Make sure the ignition is off. I would take my sacrificial open ended spanner i.e. one that I don’t mind putting burn pits on, and bridge the bolt terminals on the solenoid. There should be some sparking and the motor should turn.
If it does, I would check there is 12 V to the control terminal of the solenoid with the ignition switch held in the starting position. If there is, I would change the solenoid.
There are other possible checks to do, but it was all working before. Is there something you did at the last minute yesterday after it was working? Been there, done that!
The start contactsin ignition switch can become fouled. You say you installed a new ignition switch does that mean new from a supplier or new second hand used. Does the ignition light go out when you turn to the start position as that indicates the switch contacts are faulty?
Thanks for the replies, the solenoid is brand new and the ignition light stays on in the running position, I turned the starter motor shaft by hand and then bridged the solenoid terminals ------ sparks and starter motor kicked
All the time i’m getting well over 13V
Yes, there should be a separate earth link from the body of the starter solenoid to a good earth - at least there is on my +2. Check for a good earth connection.
Then applying 12V to the control connector (with its lead temporarily disconnected) should operate the starter.
The question was does the ignition light stay on when turned to start i.e. the last position that powers the starter solenoid not the second last run position,
if you have a multimeter check the voltage at the small terminal on the solenoid when the ignition is turned to start
The ignition light is staying on in the last running position and everywhere I check I have 12.70V.
Removeing the wlre from the starter connection on the solenoid and replaceing with a separate supply still didn’t work the starter
John
John,
If you apply 12 volts to the solenoid terminal and have a good earth connection to the earth terminal you should hear a click as the solenoid closes its output contacts. If you do not hear that or a multimeter on the ohms scale connected across the output terminals with the starter motor disconnected does not show a change then the solenoid is not working. It does not matter that it is a new one and worked just once. If it is faulty then it is still faulty.
Can you, (or a friend) check the resistance of the solenoid coil. Measured from the input terminal to the backplate, you should see about 6 ohms.
Good luck
Eric in Burnley
1967 S3SE DHC
Some progress at last, I changed the solenoid earth lead, the existing one didn’t look too healthy, but on turning the key to no.1 position the engine turned over ----- a very welcome sound which made me jump.
I’ve somehow got the connections wrong but I know the starting one is a piggyback one
Tomorrow hopefully I can sort it