clutch pedal soft when engine is started

John,
Are you sure you fitted the new clutch disc the right way round ? The hub is offset and they are usually marked with “FLYWHEEL SIDE” or “ENGINE SIDE” I don’t think that is mentioned in the Workshop Manual.

Thanks for all your replies, but please note that all I have done is change the clutch plate, the rest of the mechanism has not been interfered with. The clutch was working fine the only reason I changed the plate was because the rear core plug had to be changed which gave me the chance to check the plate.

John

Please just answer the simple question I have asked - how much does the clutch lever at the slave cylinder pushrod move when you depress the clutch pedal

cheers
Rohan

i’ve had computer problems all day Rowan, however, the measurement from the circlip to the clutch fork is 80mm with a couple of mm free play. This setting gives easy gear selection with the engine off and the pushrod.
fully home in the cylinder and the circlip in its correct slot

Thanks John

For less than £10 you can buy from Ebay an Endoscope/Boroscope that plugs into your mobile phone. They’re a bit of a pain to set up, but they are useful for seeing into hidden areas on the car. For your clutch problem you would pull back the gaiter and insert it into the bell housing. Wriggle it around a bit while someone depresses the pedal and you can see (and record) what’s happening inside the bellhousing.

I’ve just used mine tonight to check the connections on the fuel sender (gauge not working) at the back of the fuel tank.

ebay.co.uk/itm/156019738002 … 6596579227

Sorry to be blunt, but forget about when the engine is off! As Rowan says, when the engine is off you can change gear without the clutch, so it proves nothing.

I presume the distance of 80mm is with the pedal not pushed. What is the distance when the pedal is pushed? it should increase by around 20 mm.

cheers
Rohan

Yes those are the approx measurements

John

Confused me, 20mm on slave?
As log as you’ve got 20mm, then there is something else. Someone mentioned clutch faces correct way.
How did you measure 20mm?

I now have approx 100mm total when the pedal is held down, I’m working single handed so wedged the pedal down
John

The master controls the slave
100mm total
When you measure the slave, it is at zero-mm when not depressed, and 20-mm when depressed?

The thing we are all trying to establish is how far the clutch slave rod moves when the pedal is depressed.
So find someone to help by sitting in the car and pushing the pedal whilst you measure the travel on the rod. If you have a mobile phone try and video the operation whilst holding a ruler or measure of some sort to show the travel.

An easy measure can be made out of cardboard, so resting the card against the operating lever and then making a mark at the slave end at rest and another at fully depressed. Post the video here so we can see what is happening.
Tony

If the slave cylinder is moving the lever arm by 20mm and the clutch us not releasing then most likely there is an issue internally in the clutch assembly. Personally I would investigate further with a borescope before pulling the engine.

There are multiple issues that could cause the problem and sometimes the evidence gets lost when you pull the engine so any investigation to know what to fix before pulling it apart is worthwhile

i.e.
siezed pilot bearing in the crank
clutch plate in backwards or plate siezed on splines, wrong clutch plate
incorrect assembly of the clutch throw out mechanism of release bearing and carrier and D spacer and spring clips and arm on to the pivot

cheers
Rohan

Hi all,
From my experience on an Elan the pushrod in the slave will move around 13mm.

Cheers
Mark

The clutch plate is a Borg & Beck from SJ, definetly fitted the correct way wound. If I keep pumping the pedal it firms up as if there could still be some air in there, but no sign of tiny bubbles in the master cylinder.
I don’t want to keep repeating myself but as it’s only the plate that’s been changed, how could anything be wrong with the operating mechanism. I’ve noticed that the slave cylinder does not move in the bell housing

     John

You wrote,
Hi all, I’ve fitted a new clutch plate and slave cylinder.
Bleeding the clutch system on an Elan can be very problematic.

I had no gears after my full rebuild despite bleeding the slave cylinder repeatedly in situ. I removed the push rod and fitted a spacer then adjusted it out as far as I could so it was pushing the clutch lever. Started the car and could select gears so I knew it was the pushrod not moving far enough. Removed manifold and bled the slave cylinder with bleed orientated to the highest point - reassembled all fine

Probably already said but I take it the blead nipple is at the top of the slave. Otherwise you will never bleed it.
Tim

Had a similar problem on a Mini Cooper S years ago, someone had fitted the brake calipers on the wrong sides, so no matter what they did it would not bleed till the calipers were put on the correct sides with nipples at the top.

So make sure your slave has the bleed nipple at the top, as mentioned earlier
Tony

Hi John
You previously stated that the clutch slave cylinder push rod lever moves 20 mm when the clutch predal is depressed i.e. from 80mm to 100mm from the slave cylinder. If this is truely the case then the clutch should release unless there is some internal assembly problem. I gave you a list internal things that can cause the problem. Without futher photos of the clutch slave and lever arm as the clutch pedal its operated and photos from a borescope examination, we are all speculating as to possible cause and you only option is to pull the engine yet again

cheers
Rohan