Good morning - my '69 Elan is fairly low mileage but was bought with the engine out so I haven’t been able to run it to confirm that the gearbox and differential are both good. The prior owner has indicated they were, but that was 20+ years ago. Basically asking how do I avoid installing the engine only to have it come back out.
I will drain the oil in both to inspect it of course, but anything else I should be doing?
Thanks - very exciting to be asking about installation questions.
I really think you shouldn’t be trying to do this without first getting a Lotus Elan Maintenance Manual and reading it thoroughly.
Welcome to becoming an Elan owner, but it won’t be an easy ride, you seem to have lots to learn.
There are many topics on this forum describing removal and replacement of the engine, with or without the gearbox attached. I don’t want to seem mean, but asking questions of a very basic nature without apparent attempt to read existing forum message, will rapidly exhaust the patience of those of use who contribute the main advisory answers.
To answer your question above: Check the gearbox by rotating the input shaft in each of the gear positions ans see if the output shaft seems to be doing the right thing. Remove the top cover & look inside, see if any teeth are broken or chipped. Take extreme car when putting the top and lever back on as it is possible to put it in the wrong place ending up with a gear box that locks the box. Drain the oil, use a magnet in the oil to pick up any bits of metal that have come off the gears, if there are a lot, get the gearbox rebuilt by someone expert in them. When you put the gearbox back in do not refill with oil until it is in place or you will probably find yourself swimming in an oil pool under the car. { the back end is open to the oily main chamber until the propshaft is inserted}
For refitting the engine, it can be easier to do with the head removed, though not advisable if it has been professionally rebuilt. You will normally need to get the exhaust manifold (headers) an exhaust pipes roughly in position before inserting the engine as you may not be able to get them into place with the engine bolted in. Some members remove the carburettors before fitting the engine to avoid damage. The water heater valve needs to go in before you fasten the engine mounts. the two engine mounts are not identical in a 2-seater (I’m not sure about that for a Plus 2), the one on the carburettor side mounts that side higher so that it does not hit the top of the right hand foot well when the engine rocks.
Those are only some of the issues you will encounter.
Definitely get the proper workshop manual as it has all the correct procedures listed.
For example, I started a thread about engine removal (Plus 2) and it went on quite a bit. People said “remove the head” and offered all sorts of useful advice. It was quite a long thread, but in the end, I simply did what the manual said as I don’t have internet connectivity in my garage. It turned out to be straightforward.
I appreciate all the responses, but there is one thing that I’d like to just clear the air on.
Between the MGB’s, the MGA, four TR6s, 5 TR4a, two Alfa Spiders and a GTV and some air cooled stuff I’ve recused a fair number of cars. I’m reasonably competent but I’ve never had a Lotis, and specifically I’ve never had a Lotus Elan that was partially disassembled and then stored for 20+ years. There isn’t a manual on earth that covers that specific situation.
I like to ask questions – in my professional experience, and this is certainly true with the cars, more questions tends to lead to better outcomes. I often times will have to sneak projects in when I don’t have access to documentation, and even with manuals in front of me I still like to ask questions because I find it leads to better outcomes. The people here, for which I am extremely appreciative, bring experiences and coaching that simply isn’t available in any of the documentation and it strikes me as foolish tonight cooperatively take advantage of that.
I found plenty of examples where the manuals were wrong, I found plenty of examples where there are tips and techniques that simply weren’t covered.
One other practical consideration – if no one asked questions, even if it was a topic that was in the manual, most car forums would die.
tdskip.
I’m staggered that you having worked on TR4a cars you didn’t instantly recognize the front axle, brake set up, as it’s almost identical to the Elan.
I tend to agree. There can’t be a question here that hasn’t been covered in the time the forum’s been running so it’ll all be in the archives somewhere and the majority of issues could be covered by a curt ‘RTFM’ response. On that basis we might as well shut up shop, leave Google to register the content and go and do something else. It’s the ability to ask someone rather than something that makes these forums work - even if it’s the same question that was asked last week.
I’m in the middle of rebuilding an old obscure Japanese motorcycle for which not that much detailed information is available in either print or on-line form. There’s no workshop manual (of the Elan type anyway) and no dedicated forum so I’ve been reduced to either figuring it out for myself or asking people purporting to know about these things. You very quickly find out who’s helpful and / or knowledgeable or not. Finding a couple of people who know what they’re talking about and are willing to share that knowledge has been the difference between getting this project off the ground and not. Personal interaction.
I’m ‘currently’ looking for a wiring diagram but in the absence of a manual even RTFM isn’t going to help.
Oil analysis of the diff and gearbox might give you some help with your decision. Although my industrial experience was not automotive and I have been retired awhile now, I have been impressed by what can be learned.
Absolutely correct.
But for the Lotus Ela, if you need “tips and techniques”, we have a book that covers what the Manual does not: Brian Buckland’s “The Rebuilding of a Lotus Elan”.
And for the record, I published the second edition
I’d change the input and output seals while its out. Beyond that and having a look see at the oil contents and whats visible under the top cover theres not much else without a significant stripdown.
TDskip, to answer the question, no, there is no good way to check the box thoroughly for
functionality without putting it behind the engine. Not a fun job if it has to come out again.
There’s a machine shop near me that can spin the gearbox on a machine and allow
shifting, for synchro checking, which is about as far as you can go. I suggest canvassing
the shops near you for something similar.
Personally, I would not restore a car based on the answers and comments from the armature comments on any forum. It would not satisfy any safety requirement to say, a man on the internet told me.